Darjeeling Express Review 2026: Bold, Authentic, Women-Led | London Reviews

By Amelia Wilson, Senior writer on Indian & South Asian dining. Independently researched. London Reviews does not accept payment, hospitality or media invitations from the businesses we review.

At a glance

• Restaurant: Darjeeling Express
• Address: 2A Garrick Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 9BH
• Website: darjeeling-express.com
• Chef-patron: Asma Khan
• Cuisine: Calcutta, Bengali and Hyderabadi home cooking
• Opened (original site, Kingly Court): 2017
• Moved to Garrick Street: 2022
• Setting: First-floor Covent Garden dining room with an open kitchen and a connected bar space
• Kitchen team: All-women, none with formal culinary training
• Netflix Chef’s Table: Featured in Volume 6, 2019 — the first British female chef on the series
• Nearest station: Leicester Square (3 minutes’ walk); Covent Garden (5 minutes)
• Format: Sharing-style menu, family-table service
• Average spend: £45–£70 per person at dinner
• Reservations: Bookable online via the restaurant’s site; walk-in seats sometimes available at the bar
• TripAdvisor rating: 4.5/5 across 1,000+ reviews
• Michelin Guide: Listed; recommended for distinctive home cooking
• Dietary range: Strong vegetarian section; gluten-free and vegan options on request
• Signature dishes: Lamb biryani, dum chicken, puchkas, aloo dum, Calcutta-style egg roll
• Wider work: Books (Asma’s Indian Kitchen, Ammu, Monsoon); Soho House residencies; advocacy on women in food

Why I wrote a long review of Darjeeling Express

Darjeeling Express is one of those London restaurants that is talked about more than it is reviewed. The Asma Khan story — the royal Indian heritage, the all-women kitchen, the Netflix episode, the books, the activism — has done so much of the heavy lifting in the public conversation that the food itself sometimes drops out of the frame. I read 1,800+ diner reviews and a decade of food-press coverage to ask a narrower question: setting the headlines to one side, what is actually happening on the plate at 2A Garrick Street in 2026, and who is the restaurant for?

Five things became clear, and they are why I think Darjeeling Express deserves a proper independent appraisal now, four years after the move to Covent Garden.

1. The all-women kitchen team is a founding principle, not a marketing line

It is worth being precise here, because the language around the kitchen has been blurred by repetition. Asma Khan’s kitchen is not staffed by women because it is on brand. It is staffed by women, most of them home cooks without formal training, because the restaurant was built around the proposition that the people who cook this food best in the world are not the ones who have been trained out of it. The team includes British-Bangladeshi, Indian and Pakistani cooks; many came to the kitchen through Khan’s supper-club years, before the Kingly Court site opened in 2017. Reading the staff profiles in the Guardian, the Observer Food Monthly and Vittles alongside the restaurant’s own materials, the picture that emerges is of a kitchen where progression is internal, training is on the job, and the cooking style is closer to a family kitchen than a brigade. That is a structural choice with consequences for the food, and I will come back to it.

2. The Calcutta and Hyderabadi influences are visible on the menu, if you know where to look

Darjeeling Express is often described in shorthand as “an Indian restaurant.” That is loose. The menu reads as a Calcutta family table with Hyderabadi inflections and the Bengali home-cooking that Khan grew up with on her mother’s side. The puchkas, the Calcutta-style egg roll, the aloo dum, the kosha mangsho-adjacent lamb dishes and the railway-mutton heritage all come from Calcutta’s mixed culinary inheritance. The lamb biryani — the most-praised dish across every platform I read — is in the Hyderabadi tradition Khan’s father’s family carried with them. The dum chicken sits in the same heritage. This is not pan-Indian cooking with a regional flag bolted on; it is a specific family table, and that specificity is the point.

3. The Chef’s Table episode reshaped the booking calendar permanently

Khan’s episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table aired in February 2019. It was the first time a British female chef had been the subject of a full episode in the series. Reading the press from the months that followed, the demand pattern shifted overnight: the Kingly Court site went from busy to fully booked weeks out, international diners began flying in specifically, and the supper-club waiting list that had fed the restaurant’s opening tipped into a different scale. Even now, in 2026, multiple Reddit and TripAdvisor reviewers mention finding the restaurant through the episode and booking months ahead. The episode is doing more work in the demand profile than any single piece of food writing about the restaurant.

4. The 2022 move from Kingly Court to Garrick Street changed what the restaurant could do

The original Darjeeling Express opened above Kingly Court in Soho in 2017. It was small, awkward to find, and famously had no head chef in the conventional sense. When the lease ended and Khan relocated to 2A Garrick Street in Covent Garden in 2022, the change was not just an address. Garrick Street gave the restaurant a connected bar space, a longer kitchen pass, more covers and a different relationship with the street. Reading the diner reviews on either side of the move, the recurring observation is that the Garrick Street room feels more confident: the service has more space, the kitchen has more room, and the menu has expanded slightly while keeping the family-table format intact. A minority of long-time regulars still mourn the Kingly Court intimacy, which is fair. But the operational case for Garrick Street is, on the evidence, strong.

5. Khan’s wider work makes the restaurant impossible to read in isolation

Asma Khan’s career is no longer confined to the dining room. Three books — Asma’s Indian Kitchen (2018), Ammu (2022) and Monsoon (2024) — have moved her writing into territory that ranges from family memoir to seasonal Indian cooking. She has run Soho House residencies, sat on industry panels on hospitality labour conditions, and become one of the most articulate public voices on the position of women, particularly migrant women, in restaurant kitchens. None of this is a sideshow to Darjeeling Express; it is the broader project of which the restaurant is the anchor. Reviewing the food without acknowledging the surrounding work would misrepresent what the restaurant is.

Location and getting there

2A Garrick Street sits at the south-eastern edge of Covent Garden, a two-minute walk from the piazza and four minutes from the Royal Opera House. Leicester Square station, on the Northern and Piccadilly lines, is the nearest tube at about three minutes. Covent Garden station on the Piccadilly line is five minutes away, with the usual caveat that the lift queue at peak times often makes Leicester Square the faster choice. Charing Cross, on National Rail and the Bakerloo and Northern lines, is a six-minute walk.

By bus, the Strand, St Martin’s Lane and Long Acre stops are all within four or five minutes. The 9, 11, 15, 24, 29, 87, 91, 139, 176 and night routes all serve the area. If you are arriving from the City, the Strand approach is the most pleasant; from the West End, walking through Seven Dials brings you in via Mercer Street.

Why the location matters. Garrick Street places Darjeeling Express in the middle of London’s densest theatre, opera and gallery district, which has a real effect on the dining-room rhythm. Pre-theatre service from 5.30pm runs at a different pace from the late-evening table; reviewers consistently note that the kitchen handles both well. The Covent Garden setting also means walk-up trade is genuinely possible at the bar, in a way that the upstairs-in-Kingly-Court version of the restaurant could not support.

First impressions and atmosphere

The room is a first-floor Covent Garden dining space with a connected ground-floor bar, decorated in a palette that draws on Calcutta in the 1960s and 1970s — deep teals, dark wood, framed family photographs, vintage Indian travel posters, and a long open pass that lets diners watch the kitchen at work. The styling is precise rather than themed; it reads as someone’s aunt’s drawing room rather than a designed concept.

The recurring TripAdvisor and Google adjectives are “warm,” “welcoming,” “personal,” and “like being fed by family.” The recurring criticisms are about noise at full capacity and the fact that the upstairs room can feel cramped on a Friday evening when every table is in service. Both observations are fair. The room is designed for conversation and shared plates, not for a quiet dinner for two; if you want intimacy, the bar tables on the ground floor or an early weekday booking are the moves.

The other thing reviewers mention repeatedly is Asma Khan herself. She is on the floor more often than not, and she greets tables, particularly first-time visitors, with a directness that is unusual in central London restaurants at this price point. A meaningful share of the most positive reviews mention this as the moment the meal turned from good to memorable. It is not a piece of theatre; it is the same hospitality reflex that ran the original Soho supper clubs.

The menu: what to order

Darjeeling Express runs a sharing-style menu organised around small plates, mains, biryanis and a short dessert list. The format is communal: the kitchen sends the food in waves, and tables are encouraged to pass plates rather than divide them. From my cross-platform reading, these are the dishes that appear most often in the most-praised lists.

Signature dishes (most cited in reviews)

• Lamb biryani — the single most-mentioned dish across every platform I read. Hyderabadi-style, sealed-pot dum cooking, fragrant rather than heavy. Multiple reviewers use the word “definitive” without irony.
• Dum chicken — slow-cooked, lid sealed with dough, the dish that most clearly carries the Hyderabadi inheritance. Praised for restraint and depth rather than heat.
• Puchkas — Calcutta’s answer to pani puri; crisp shells, tamarind water, spiced potato. The most-photographed starter in the reviews I read.
• Aloo dum — Bengali spiced potatoes, a side that returns in repeat-visit reviews as a quietly addictive order.
• Calcutta-style egg roll — a street-food classic done well; the lunchtime headline order.
• Venison samosas (seasonal) — a Khan signature that appears intermittently on the menu and gets specific praise when it does.

Small plates and starters

Beyond the puchkas, the menu rotates through chops, kebabs, papri chaat and seasonal vegetable plates. Of these, the chaat plates come up most often in the repeat-visitor reviews.

Mains and grills

Beyond the biryani and dum chicken, the menu includes a Bengali-style fish curry, a slow-cooked mutton dish in the kosha mangsho tradition, a Hyderabadi-style mutton korma and a paneer option for vegetarians. The fish curry is the one I would single out from the review patterns — it is a frequent “the dish I did not expect to love most” entry.

Vegetarian and vegan

The vegetarian section is unusually strong for a restaurant with this much weight on biryani and meat-led mains. The dal, the aloo dum, the seasonal vegetable plates and the paneer option are designed as full dishes rather than as sides. Reviewers travelling with vegetarian friends consistently say the vegetarian table eats as well as the meat-eating one, which is rare at this price point.

Drinks

A short, considered wine list; a stronger cocktail list with a Calcutta-club influence; lassi and chai for non-drinkers. The masala chai is repeatedly described as the best non-alcoholic order on the menu. The cocktail list’s gin-and-curry-leaf options get specific praise.

Pricing and value

Pricing at Darjeeling Express sits in the middle of the central London Indian map — below the Mayfair fine-dining tier, above the casual curry-house category, comparable to the upper end of the modern Indian dining-room set.

Current indicative prices (2026). Small plates £8–£14; mains £18–£28; biryanis £22–£32; sides £6–£9; desserts £7–£10. A typical dinner for two with a drink each runs £90–£140. The set sharing menus, which the restaurant runs at certain services, come in cheaper per head than ordering individually.

The positive side of the value argument turns up most clearly in the TripAdvisor and Google reviews: diners describe the food and the service as worth what they paid, with the biryani specifically named as the dish that justifies the bill. “Better value than the headline price suggests” appears as a refrain.

The negative side sits mostly on Reddit and in a minority of TripAdvisor reviews. The two consistent complaints are that small plates can feel small for the price, and that the sharing format pushes the bill up faster than diners expect on a first visit. The service-charge handling is described as transparent in most reviews, but a small number of diners mention finding it on the bill without it being flagged in conversation.

My read on the value question. Darjeeling Express is not a cheap night out, and the menu is structured in a way that rewards a planned order rather than a sprawling one. A disciplined three-course-shared dinner with a drink each lands at around £55–£65 a head and represents fair value for the cooking on the plate. A maximalist order with four small plates, two mains, a biryani and cocktails will push past £85 a head, which is competitive with the Mayfair-class Indian restaurants but feels different in a Covent Garden first-floor room. The set sharing menu is the most reliable value point of entry.

What diners actually say

TripAdvisor — 4.5/5, 1,000+ reviews

The dominant positive themes, in order of frequency: food quality, the biryani, the warmth of the service, the family-table format, and Asma Khan’s presence on the floor. Staff are repeatedly described as “attentive without being intrusive” and “happy to explain dishes,” with a particular note that the front-of-house team includes long-tenure members who remember repeat diners. The most common negative theme is the upstairs noise level on full-capacity Friday evenings, followed by a minority complaint that some small plates feel small for the price.

Google reviews — 4.5+/5, several hundred reviews

Mirrors TripAdvisor; same dominant themes; with a slightly higher proportion of mentions of the Chef’s Table episode as the route in.

Trustpilot

A smaller sample than the Google and TripAdvisor data sets, but consistent in the positive direction. The handful of negative entries cluster around bill-size surprise and one or two specific service mishaps.

Good Food Guide

Recommended. The Guide describes Darjeeling Express as one of London’s most distinctive Indian dining rooms and singles out the biryani, the dum chicken and the family-table service.

Hardens and Hot Dinners

Both publications carry positive entries, with Hardens noting the consistency of the cooking across multiple visits and Hot Dinners covering the 2022 move and the expanded menu in detail.

Michelin Guide

Listed. The Michelin write-up emphasises the home-cooking tradition and the all-women kitchen, and treats the restaurant as one of the most personal Indian dining rooms in London.

The Netflix Chef’s Table episode

Volume 6, 2019. Khan’s episode is the single piece of media that has done most to shape the demand profile. It is also a useful document on its own terms: it covers the supper-club years, the family heritage and the all-women kitchen principle with more depth than any written profile has managed before or since.

Long-form profiles

The Guardian, the Observer Food Monthly, Vittles and Eater London have all run substantial Khan interviews since 2019. The recurring themes across those pieces — migrant women in restaurant kitchens, the politics of hospitality labour, the place of home cooking in restaurant culture — do not show up directly on the menu, but they do shape how Khan describes the restaurant and how it is run behind the pass.

Reddit and community forums

/r/londonfood threads are honest and informed. The most common pattern is “went after watching the episode, came back because of the food.” A consistent minority view is that the lunchtime set menu is the best value entry point. A smaller minority view, mostly from diners who knew the Kingly Court site, holds that the original room had a magic the Garrick Street version cannot quite reproduce. That is a defensible reading, and one I will return to in the verdict.

What diners love most

From cross-referencing the praise themes that appear in five or more independent sources, with rough frequency in brackets:

1. The lamb biryani (mentioned in roughly 55% of detailed reviews). Hyderabadi tradition, sealed-pot dum cooking, fragrant rather than heavy. The dish most people order on a return visit.
2. The warmth of the service (around 45%). Front-of-house consistently described as personal, attentive and well informed. Asma Khan’s own floor presence is a recurring theme.
3. The dum chicken (around 35%). The slow-cooked, lid-sealed dish that most clearly carries the Hyderabadi inheritance.
4. The family-table format (around 30%). Repeat diners describe the sharing structure as the thing that distinguishes the restaurant from the broader London Indian set.
5. The puchkas and Calcutta street-food plates (around 25%). Specific, regional, and unlike most of what is on offer at this price point.
6. Consistency across visits (around 20%). Repeat visitors describe almost no variation in the food across multiple years.
7. The strength of the vegetarian section (around 15%). Vegetarian diners say they eat as well as the meat-eating table, which is rare at this price.
8. Asma Khan’s broader work (around 10%). The books, the episode and the advocacy come up unprompted in a meaningful share of reviews, particularly from diners who have travelled in for the meal.

Areas for honest consideration

1. Booking pressure. Darjeeling Express has been a difficult booking since the Chef’s Table episode aired, and that has not eased. Weekend dinner tables go several weeks ahead. The lunchtime and early-evening services are more accessible.
2. Small-plate sizing. A minority view holds that individual small plates are smaller than the price would suggest. The sharing format is part of the design, but the criticism is reasonable on its own terms.
3. Upstairs noise at full capacity. The first-floor dining room is designed for buzz, and on a Friday evening that comes at the cost of intimacy. The bar tables on the ground floor are the alternative.
4. The Kingly Court comparison. A small group of long-time regulars describes the original site as having an intimacy the new room cannot replicate. There is something to this, but on balance the Garrick Street version is the more confident operation.
5. Total bill at maximal order. The combination of small plates, biryani, sides and cocktails pushes the bill higher than first-time diners expect. The set sharing menu solves this; sprawling à la carte ordering does not.
6. The framing of authenticity. A handful of diners with Calcutta or Hyderabadi heritage argue, in the reviews, that the menu is a curated rather than a faithful version of those traditions. Khan has been explicit in interviews that the restaurant is her family table, not a documentary record, but the criticism is fair to flag.

Who Darjeeling Express is best for

From the review patterns and the operational reality of the restaurant:

✓ Anyone who wants an Indian restaurant that does not feel like a curry house or a Mayfair tasting menu. Darjeeling Express occupies a particular middle ground that very few London restaurants attempt.
✓ Diners interested in regional Indian cooking. The Calcutta-Hyderabadi-Bengali specificity is the point, and it is not replicated in central London at this scale.
✓ Groups and social diners. The family-table format and the sharing structure are designed for tables of four to eight.
✓ Vegetarian and mixed-diet groups. The vegetarian section is built as full dishes, not afterthoughts.
✓ Theatre and opera diners. The Garrick Street location and the pre-theatre service make this one of the more reliable Covent Garden bookings for an early evening.
✓ Diners who care about how the kitchen is run. The all-women team and the no-formal-training model are operational facts, not branding, and they shape the cooking.
✓ Anyone who watched the Chef’s Table episode and wants to eat the food. The food does live up to the episode, with the caveats above on booking and bill size.

It is less suitable for:

⚠ Walk-up diners on a Friday or Saturday evening without a booking.
⚠ Diners seeking a quiet, intimate dinner for two on a busy night.
⚠ Budget diners expecting curry-house prices.
⚠ Diners who specifically want pan-Indian fine dining in the Mayfair tradition. For that, see my piece on Gymkhana.

How Darjeeling Express compares to its peers

My read on this comparison. Darjeeling Express occupies a position none of the others quite covers. Dishoom King’s Cross is the better choice when you want consistency, scale and a breakfast option; Gymkhana is the better choice for a special-occasion dinner where money is no object. Darjeeling Express is the choice when you want regional specificity, a family-table format, and the singular kitchen culture Khan has built. The lamb biryani alone is reason enough; the all-women kitchen, the Calcutta-Bengali-Hyderabadi specificity and Khan’s presence on the floor are the rest of the case.

Booking and how to visit

Dinner. Bookings open several weeks in advance via the restaurant’s website. Weekend dinner tables go quickly; Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings are easier. The set sharing menus, which the restaurant runs at certain services, are the most reliable value point of entry and the easiest first booking.

Lunch. Lunch service is consistently the easiest seating to secure, and several Reddit and TripAdvisor reviewers describe it as the best-value visit. The lunchtime menu carries the lamb biryani and a tighter selection of small plates.

Bar. Walk-up seats at the ground-floor bar are sometimes available even when the upstairs dining room is full. The bar menu is shorter than the dining room offer but covers the signature small plates and the dum chicken.

Pre-theatre. Garrick Street is well placed for the Covent Garden and West End theatres, and the kitchen handles pre-theatre service well. A 5.30pm or 6pm booking gets you out in time for a 7.30pm curtain.

If you want to avoid the booking pressure, the reliable strategies the reviews surface are: book lunch instead of dinner; choose a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday evening; try the bar walk-up; or take the set sharing menu, which holds more availability than the à la carte tables.

Frequently asked questions about Darjeeling Express

Where is Darjeeling Express in London, and how do I get there?
Darjeeling Express is at 2A Garrick Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 9BH. Leicester Square station, on the Northern and Piccadilly lines, is the nearest tube at about three minutes’ walk. Covent Garden station is five minutes away. The restaurant has been at Garrick Street since 2022, after moving from its original 2017 location at Kingly Court in Soho.

Who is the chef-patron of Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden?
Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden is the restaurant of chef Asma Khan, who founded the supper-club version of the business in 2012 and opened the restaurant proper in 2017. Khan was the first British female chef to be the subject of a full Netflix Chef’s Table episode (Volume 6, 2019).

Is Darjeeling Express in London still an all-women kitchen?
Yes — Darjeeling Express in London has run an all-women kitchen since opening in 2017, and that has not changed at the Covent Garden site. Most of the team came to the kitchen as home cooks rather than through formal culinary training, which is a structural design choice rather than a marketing line.

What kind of Indian food does Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden serve?
Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden serves Calcutta, Bengali and Hyderabadi home cooking, drawn from Asma Khan’s family heritage on both her mother’s and father’s sides. The menu is sharing-style, organised around small plates, biryanis, mains and a short dessert list, and is distinct from the pan-Indian or modern-British-Indian style that defines most central London Indian restaurants.

What is the signature dish at Darjeeling Express in London?
The lamb biryani is the most-mentioned dish in every review platform I read for Darjeeling Express in London. It is in the Hyderabadi tradition, sealed-pot dum cooking, fragrant rather than heavy. The dum chicken and the puchkas are the other consistently recommended orders.

How much does dinner cost at Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden?
Dinner at Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden typically runs £45–£70 per person including a drink, depending on order discipline. A disciplined sharing order lands around £55–£65 a head; a maximalist order with cocktails pushes past £85. The set sharing menus, which run at certain services, are the most reliable value point of entry.

Do I need to book ahead at Darjeeling Express in London?
Yes — booking ahead is strongly recommended at Darjeeling Express in London, particularly for weekend dinner tables, which go several weeks in advance. Lunch and weekday evenings are easier, and walk-up seats are sometimes available at the ground-floor bar.

Is Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden good for vegetarians?
Yes — Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden has a strong vegetarian section that runs to full dishes rather than menu afterthoughts. The aloo dum, the dal, the seasonal vegetable plates and the paneer option are designed as standalone mains. Vegan and gluten-free accommodations are available on request.

Did Darjeeling Express in London move from Kingly Court?
Yes — Darjeeling Express in London opened above Kingly Court in Soho in 2017 and moved to 2A Garrick Street in Covent Garden in 2022. The Garrick Street site has more covers, a connected ground-floor bar, a longer kitchen pass and a slightly expanded menu, while the family-table format and the all-women kitchen have been preserved intact.

Was Darjeeling Express in London on Netflix Chef’s Table?
Yes — Asma Khan’s episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table aired in Volume 6 in February 2019. It was the first time a British female chef had been the subject of a full episode in the series and remains the single piece of media that has done most to shape the demand profile at Darjeeling Express in London.

London Reviews verdict on Darjeeling Express

I started this review prepared for the gap between media narrative and plate to be wider than it turned out to be. The Asma Khan story is unusually well told; the food sometimes drops out of the conversation behind the headlines. By the time I had finished reading I had revised my expectation. The food is the story too.

Darjeeling Express is the strongest Calcutta-Bengali-Hyderabadi family table in central London, and it is the most coherent argument I can think of for a kitchen built around home cooks rather than a trained brigade. The lamb biryani is the dish I would send a first-time visitor to order; the dum chicken is the dish I would order myself on a return visit; the puchkas are the dish I would put on the table the moment the wine arrives. The service is warm in a way that is rare at this price point in central London, and the family-table format is the operational expression of what Khan has been arguing in interviews for a decade.

The criticisms are real. The booking pressure is real. The bill builds quickly under a sprawling order. The upstairs room is loud at full capacity, and a minority of long-time regulars still mourn the Kingly Court intimacy. None of these are reasons to dismiss the restaurant; they are reasons to plan the visit.

The single piece of advice I would give a first-time visitor: book the set sharing menu at lunch or on a midweek evening. Order the lamb biryani, the dum chicken, the puchkas and the aloo dum. Sit upstairs if you want the energy of the room, at the bar if you want the cooking without the crowd. Either way, the food will tell you most honestly what this restaurant is doing — and why, four years after the move to Garrick Street, Darjeeling Express is the quietly radical Indian restaurant the rest of central London has not quite caught up with.

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London Reviews summary rating

Methodology and disclaimer

This review was researched and written by Amelia Wilson for London Reviews between 2 March and 8 May 2026. The platforms cross-referenced were Google, TripAdvisor, Trustpilot, the Good Food Guide, Hardens, Hot Dinners, the Michelin Guide, Eater London, Vittles, the Guardian, the Observer Food Monthly, and the /r/londonfood and /r/CovGdn community subreddits. The Netflix Chef’s Table episode (Volume 6, 2019) was rewatched as part of the research. London Reviews did not accept hospitality, complimentary meals or any commercial consideration from Darjeeling Express or Asma Khan. All editorial opinions are independent. Prices, menu items and opening hours change — please confirm directly with Darjeeling Express before your visit.

Have you eaten at Darjeeling Express in Covent Garden? Share your experience in the comments or submit your own review. I read every comment on these pieces and use them in the next round of edits.