The Iberian peninsula might be where it’s at right now, but the city’s French restaurants continue to bring a lot to the table (literally). Good bread and good wine, roll-the-sleeves-up cheeses and OTT desserts are so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget where they came from — and where still does them best. The list below is a mix of ancient and modern, but even the newcomers show a heartening disregard for food fashion, only remixing the classics very gently (if at all). If it ain’t broke…
