Last Updated on February 22, 2024
A Classic Hotel where Art, History and Luxury Align
Travelling to Edinburgh through one of the recent storms, with delays and cancellations across the rail network, the knowledge my final destination was warm and comfortable in addition to being an elegant and prestigious address helped make the journey more relaxed. I’ve stayed at The Bonham Hotel before and was keen to revisit after their recent refurbishment.
In the West End (nothing to do with Theatreland here), The Bonham is set in leafy DrumsHeugh Gardens, on the edge of Edinburgh New Town and a stone’s throw from Dean Village. In 1872 it was a part of the city that was elegant and tranquil and, when the three townhouses that are now the Bonham were first constructed, it would have been a desirable residential neighbourhood, much as it is today. In 1939, the buildings themselves were sold and became a ‘Private Clinic’ – a private maternity hospital where hundreds of Bonham Babies were born. I learnt from the team at the hotel that some of those babies still visit today – for reunion teas – or in the case of one gentleman who lives a few houses away, to relax and enjoy lunch a couple of times a week.
The building went through another life, as Halls of Residence for university students before a major renovation and opening in 1998 as The Bonham Hotel. All the bedrooms were refurbished in 2018, while the public areas had a major makeover the next year. It’s a glorious space – where the traditional features of the townhouses have been preserved without any compromise to comfort. What makes The Bonham unique though, is the art collection that you’ll find around the building now. From the moment you enter the reception lobby, where you might spot a beautiful original Tiffany floor lamp dating back to 1905 and attributed to Clara Driscoll, to the beautiful watercolours and oils around the restaurant, lounge and bar and in some of the suites, anyone who loves art and art history will find that the Bonham has its own gallery collection, loaned from the estate of Richard H. Driehaus, the founder of Driehaus Capital Management who bought the hotel in 2017.
I was fascinated to learn that Richard H. Driehaus was a well-known financier and philanthropist in the USA who took responsibility for saving and restoring the Nickerson Mansion in Chicago, now a public museum named after him. He was also the founder of the Driehaus Award, which promotes and encourages architectural excellence that applies the principles of traditional, classical and sustainable architecture and urbanism. A global prize awarded each year by the University of Notre Dame in Indiana, this year’s laureate is Ben Pentreath, who studied History of Art and Architecture at the University of Edinburgh and now runs a London-based practice, focussing on traditional and classical style.
Of course, what matters most for any hotel must be the comfort and facilities it offers to visitors. The Bonham Hotel lacks nothing on my personal wishlist. I love the intimacy of the 49-room hotel with its comfortable public areas on the ground floor. We’ve enjoyed dinner at the cosy restaurant, No. 35 before – and chose to celebrate my brother’s birthday there on this occasion. And, I arrived, totally drenched by Storm Babete, but cheerful because I was anticipating a comfortable stay.
I wasn’t in the least disappointed. My junior suite to the back of the hotel came with a fabulously comfortable Hypnos king-size bed with superfine white cotton bed linen. The bathroom had a great selection of toiletries, from After the Rain: Arran Sense of Scotland, fluffy towels and bathrobes and a little chest of drawers full of extras; cottonwool, emery boards, a comb and more.
On the amply sized desk, a Nespresso machine and pods, all set up and ready to go. I’m an expert at spilling water when I have to fill a new coffee machine, so was really pleased to find that the Bonham pre-fill theirs as part of setting a room for a new guest.
There was fresh milk in the fridge, a kettle and hospitality tray in the cupboard and, a little box on the desk temptingly full of snacks, including Scotland’s own Tunnock’s Caramel Wafers. A gift bag of homemade shortbread on the pillow and a decanter of Single Malt on the sideboard. Yes, it felt like coming home.
I had a chance to look around some of the other rooms and can honestly say that no matter whether you opt for the Townhouse bedrooms or for a Suite, you won’t feel cramped. The rooms are all large, with high ceilings and views out across the garden square or over the rooftops of Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth. Of course, the Signature Suites with their separate living areas are stunning and come with showcase art on the wall from the Richard H Driehaus collection. And, I rather like the quirky bathtub I spotted on my tour, though I am not sure I’d ever know how to use it!
Dinner at No. 35, The Bonham Hotel’s restaurant, was a resounding success. We’d warned the hotel in advance about one member of my family’s dietary requirements. Her illness means that she can’t eat meat, gluten or dairy amongst other things. Generally, when we go out together, she isn’t offered a choice – and whatever is put on her plate is bland. At No. 35, they really went above and beyond to offer her a personalised menu, with a choice of dishes for every course. And, nothing looked in the least bit boring.
The Trout Mosaic she was served was a similar construction to my Isle of Gigha Halibut Mosaic, with a cucumber broth but without ‘Katy Rodger’s yoghurt emulsion’. We both loved the presentation and the fresh flavours – and the fish was perfectly cooked.
My brother meanwhile picked the pressed chicken and ham hock, a rich starter served with Savora mustard pickles and a finger of chicken fat toast. For some reason, it felt very festive – the sort of dish I’d look for on a Christmas buffet. Delicious.
Roe Deer Saddle of Venison as a main course came with baked celeriac, savoy and red cabbage, a beetroot infused aquafaba, hazelnuts and a rich game jus. Perfectly cooked venison is a joy at this time of year and here the seared and caramelised shell of the meat revealed a pink, well-rested centre. I loved the addition of toasted hazelnuts to the plate and really enjoyed the celeriac
To meet her dietary guidelines, my sister-in-law picked Halibut from her own personalised menu – served with a rich olive oil potato espuma, beetroot, peas and oyster leaf. A triumph for the kitchen to produce such excellent quality and beautifully presented food without compromise.
Similarly, I was actually rather jealous of her dessert – a pavlova with pistachio custard and macerated strawberries.
Though I loved my own lemon tart ‘Lucia’s Glazed Lemon Tar with Scottish raspberries and Normandy creme fraiche’ – with a caramelized top that was almost like a creme brulee and perfect crisp pastry.
Meanwhile, my brother indulged in the Sticky Toffee Pudding with butterscotch sauce and Arran dairy vanilla ice cream. I should say that was AFTER the hotel’s birthday plate of petit fours!
We enjoyed an excellent bottle of Versant Pinot Noir with our meal, while my sister-in-law, as designated driver, opted for a beautifully presented non-alcoholic cocktail. Then, for me, it was just a short trip up the stairs to bed, where I slept beautifully.
Breakfast at the Bonham Hotel is served in Restaurant 35 too. I wanted a cooked option but opted for the vegetarian full breakfast simply to have a lighter experience. Very delicious it was too.
And, I was so impressed with the food, that I ended up having lunch from the lounge menu there too. I have to confess, it was partly curiosity because the hotel manager had recommended the house fish and chips and once I had the idea in my head, I just needed to try it. Had I not been so greedy there was an option of paninis, soup or sandwiches…but
Perfectly crisp batter encased the fish and the chunky chips had fluffy centres. There were just enough crushed peas to let me indulge in the belief that I’d picked a healthy option. And, I’d go back again if I could.
It’s fair to say that the food options at The Bonham Hotel are one of the reasons I like visiting. The rooms are wonderfully comfortable and I love the traditional styling with a scattering of unique artwork that makes everything feel special.
Most important of all though, the team at the Bonham are welcoming, friendly and truly helpful. It really is a service level above and beyond – and one that makes the Bonham a real home from home.
The Bonham Hotel
35 Drumsheugh Gardens
Edinburgh, EH3 7RN
Tel: +44 131 226 6050
Email: Reception
For more places to stay in Edinburgh do check our round-up of tried and tested boutique hotels .
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