Last Updated on December 10, 2023
A Gastrolunch in the Country at Matt Larcombe’s The Victoria
There’s nothing quite like a classic country pub in winter. Somewhere to cosy up after a refreshing walk – or just to relax away from the stress of the City. I’m always astonished at how quick it is to be in the middle of the countryside if you take a train from London – and Oxshott, a pretty village in the heart of the Surrey Hills is a great example. It takes just under 40 minutes to get there from London Waterloo, with The Victoria a short walk from the station. With three AA rosettes, it’s a destination gastropub that has been opened for just a couple of years. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to visit recently to find out more.
Snuggled up by the fire, we had a look through the winter menu. There’s a definite seasonal feel to the dishes on offer with snacks like handpicked radishes with gentleman’s relish or devils on horseback on offer.
Instead, though, we skipped straight to the starters and, encouraged by the staff at The Victoria, I ordered the mushroom parfait with sweet and sour onions and brioche, apparently a house special. It was an exceptionally beautiful presentation with a meltingly soft parfait studded with feathers of mushroom, all served on a crisp brioche slice
My companion picked the beetroot with goat’s cheese mousse, walnut and dill. It’s one of those sets of flavour combinations you just know will work brilliantly and look pretty too.
We couldn’t resist ordering one of the sharing dishes as our main. The Victoria offers a range of delicious-sounding dishes, including a classic Fish and Chips or Sladesdown farm duck breast with blackberry, carrot and cavolo nero, or slow-cooked pork with hispi cabbage, apple and black pudding. Then there are a few steak options, including a Tomahawk to share with beef fat roasted onions, chips and red wine sauce. But, for a lighter and rather unusual sharing dish, there’s Dover sole served with beurre noisette, capers, fennel, cucumber, samphire and pommes anna
The rather magnificent Dover sole came on the bone, with the option to help yourself or to be served by the team at The Victoria. Dressed with finely sliced cucumber, samphire and capers and with braised charred fennel to the side, it was utterly delicious and a perfect dish to share
Then there were gloriously crispy and inherently sinful pommes anna, served with a side of mayo. Our attempt at a light and healthy lunch was somewhat off course, though a generous side of hispi cabbage with miso and black pudding crumb did help the ‘five a day’ along – and I was impressed by the utterly delicious flavour combination – the black pudding crumb adding earthy notes and textural interest to the cabbage.
To drink throughout the meal we asked for a recommendation. We thoroughly enjoyed our Hexamer, Riesling Porphyr 2016, a softly honeyed wine with notes of lemon and peach, and with enough acidity to balance the buttery sauce of the Dover sole but with good minerality too.
The dessert menu at The Victoria presented another decision-making dilemma. I could easily have eaten anything on the menu, but was easily convinced to opt for the house special again – the pear ‘Victoria’ sponge. The fine, crisp white chocolate dome revealed a filling of (yes) Victoria sponge with a pear compote and vanilla cream. Light as a feather and really rather spectacular too. I learnt that this particular dessert varies according to the seasons – so in summer, you might find a peach or raspberry ‘Victoria’ sponge. That sounds like a great reason to come back and try it again…
My companion, meanwhile, opted for the ‘grown-up sweet shop option – the Marathon bar with aero and chocolate sorbet! There was a level of creativity and refinement in these desserts that was totally unexpected and delightful.
Excellent coffee came with marshmallows and truffles – the perfect end to a great lunch.
With a dog-friendly policy, The Victoria is the kind of place that would be perfect as an end-of-walk destination – but equally special if you just want to get out of London and relax in the country. We loved the atmosphere, impeccable service and excellent seasonal food. We were particularly impressed by the innovative menu – every dish had a unique and creative twist that just made the meal special. If you live locally, how lucky you are…if not, it’s worth the journey!
The Victoria Oxshott
High St,
Oxshott,
Leatherhead
Surrey
KT22 0JR
Looking for something different in Surrey? Check out our review of Nutfield Priory
