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The biggest restaurateur for my generation was Russell Norman, the founder of both Polpo and Grossto. Expanding charm and charisma he immediately turned up a room; Brilliant lighter than most Hollywood A-listers. Omnip present at his Smithfield restaurant gross, he would recognize every guest by name and chose gently where to place each one to ensure that everyone liked the perfect dining experience.
I loved having dinner with Russell, an expert on Italian food, and experiencing his recommendations for food and drink in Florence, Venice and London. With his unmatched influence in mind, here are my choices for the capital’s best Italian restaurants, which I recommend for a beautiful meal this Valentine’s weekend …
As a starter (or prima), Margot in Holborn has been around for almost a decade and exudes romance, while Sartoria Saville Row is one of the finest Italians in Mayfair (their double -sized Kalana Milanese to share with a Sicilian Planeta Menfi Chardonnay (122 £).
Pinna
Elsewhere in Mayfair, I eaten with another exceptional restaurateur, George Bukhov-Weinstein co-owner of Goodman, Beast and the brilliant wild tavern in Chelsea (among other places)-at Pinna, his new company on Curzon Street.
Pinna has opened quietly, but is already on the visitor lists of those who know. Bringing the best of Sardinia to London Whilst Respect and Sourcing British Ingredients, Sicilian Born Chief Achille Pinna Has An Outstanding Reputation – Well Warranted if Judging By the Blue Fine Tuna Tartar, A Cornish Seabass Ceviche and an UNON OX TIGERS MILK, With Zucchini, Sea Urchin and Mazara.
The wine list is also a joy, ranging from accessible to some sublime abandoned supertuscans. We chose it later – Thanks George! I highly recommend both Condrieu of Culleron (£ 130) or a small Sassicaia 2010 (£ 900).
POOR
Gross continues to show the legacy of Normanner’s genius. Their Negroni at £ 5 on the New York -affected counter, dog -friendly and “single” policy and a fantastic menu with Florentine ticket companies means that it remains a sanctuary for hospitality.
I visited YGT founder and man about the city (as long as it is Smithfield or Devonshire), Andrew Harding last week to enjoy our monthly pen with vodka and tomato fix and to share their signature Tuskan beef stew. When it is washed down with a bottle of the 20 Mosnel Franciacorta (£ 130, Ruinart of Italy) and a little golf chat, the perfect lunch is ready.
Morsel
Sister restaurant for new opening Osteria del Mare; Bocconcino will be highly recommended. I visited the Soho place after seeing Jason Manford at Palladium (to support Teenage Cancer Trust) on Friday. You will note that I have eaten far too much pasta over the past week, as a victim to this fair column. Every Friday night they offer live music and DJs, which is quite fun.
Tartare di Tonno with tuna sauce was a nice game at Vitello Tonnato, while Yellowtail Tartare with orange essence and white soy was divine. Maybe it was the extensive cocktail list, but my wife also loved it (“overstated” in my opinion) Carbonara and told me that I do not know what I am talking about and was “a northern farmer who grew up on creamy sauces”; You can also visit to celebrate marital harmony!
DISK
With ex Ramsay chef Ben Waugh who leads the kitchen, Bancone is by far the best “counter-style” pasta site in town. The imitators have failed to beat Bancone’s sublim silk chief or their bucatini cacio e pepe. This visit, I also “filled” my own midriff with the taste experience which is a Cornish Crab Cappellacci with corn and sea herbs, and washed it with one of my very favorite Italian white, a Pomino Bianco Frescobaldi Chardonnay, which is exceptional value to £ 59. My friend of the fir. Michelin Bib Gourmand this week and it is most deserved! Watch out for Myers and his partner David Ramsey’s new Tottenham Court Road Rooftop which opens this summer (you heard this first) …
Michelin in the city
Etoile’s Michelin was gifted at a glittering ceremony in Glasgow on Monday. At the square mile you can enjoy a starry splendor at Angler at South Place Hotel, Galvin La Chapelle, Club Gascon and St. Barts. Awarded two stars in the city we have now laid Dame de Pic in the four seasons (although this will close soon) or you can hop on an Uber bike in your Gilets to Clove Club in Shoreditch, or to Tom Seller’s excellent history and Jonny Lake and Isa Bal’s Till, both in Southwark. For three stars it is still a cabin to Mayfair or Notting Hill.
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