In Horto’s 3-course Wood-Fired Festive Feast

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Last Updated on December 11, 2023

Dangerously More-ish Starters and Mains
The Dessert? Not so much…

I felt like I was trespassing when I entered Southwark Quarter, the complex of independent restaurants, bars and street food a stone’s throw from Borough Market. Amongst these, In Horto is quiet and unassuming, with the feel of a hidden gem.

In Horto’s typically open windows are closed for winter, and the formerly airy space – with potted plants and vines – is transformed into a warm-lit and wood-panelled saloon, complete with rattan lamps and candlelight. Overlooking is the heart of In Horto’s cuisine: a smoking wood-fired oven. The open-plan kitchen reflects In Horto’s aim of bringing a Mediterranean attitude of shared cooking and eating into London’s busy centre; a communal garden (In Horto translates from Latin to ‘In the Garden’) in the fast-paced city.

We begin – naturally – with cocktails. The wood-fired oven and oaken aesthetic seem already to have taken effect as we ordered two of In Horto’s smokier cocktails; for my partner a ‘Mezcal Hanky Panky’ whilst I opted for a classic old-fashioned.

Both arrived immaculately presented; mine contained a clear block of glassy ice, stamped with a leaf design, whilst the Mezcal Hanky Panky boasted a snazzy work of orange peel origami. For the extra showbiz factor, our waiter David smoked the old-fashioned with a flame torch and smoker top. We were suitably impressed and pleased to find the cocktails pleasantly strong, with the smokiness of the Mezcal cocktail hitting the back of the throat nicely. 

Our starter then arrived on a wooden board – the aesthetic of In Horto might be summed up as minimalist rusticism – and it was thoroughly divine. Baked Tunworth is like an English camembert, except tangier and stickier. Breaking through the cheese skin crust is an act of joy in itself; the cheese bubbles deliciously and the paddle penetration unlocks an incredible aroma of cheesy garlic and rosemary. Like many of In Horto’s dishes, the portion is one to share and it is generous; my partner and I couldn’t resist finishing it despite knowing we had several courses yet to come. 

Accompanied now by a dry Malbec it was time to confront the mains: turkey with all the trimmings and a huge vegetarian cauliflower cheese. The head of cauliflower was crowned with cheese and herbs in a bath of garlic-infused oils and cheese-grease softened potatoes; an undeniable star. My fork melted through the potatoes which paired very well with the cauliflower; both were full of flavour, including the stem. That’s not to slight the turkey et al… the cauliflower cheese really was just that good. The turkey however was tender, the sprouts firm and flavourful and the pigs in blankets (my partner and I had one each) very tasty. It was not a typically calorific mound of meat, potatoes and gravy, but rather a balanced selection of well-cooked trimmings.

The final course of In Horto’s festive menu offers a choice between tiramisu or a seasonal apple and cranberry crumble. After the dangerously more-ish Tunworth and cauliflower cheese and potatoes, the desserts failed to meet the same high standard. The tiramisu’s biscuit was soaked and disintegrating, but one had to eat several spoonfuls of dense, chocolate-sprinkled cream to get there. I love any dairy product, cream included, so this was no bad thing, but I feel the tiramisu could have better emphasised its different flavour profiles. The seasonal apple and cranberry crumble was also a departure from the previously hearty offerings; the peeled apples, the sweetness of the cranberries, and the sugared oats on top all felt slightly too polished. In Horto‘s festive starter and mains combine a homemade feel with top-level cooking, whereas the crumble was tasty, but nothing more.

With generous portion sizes and unfailingly flavourful vegetables, meats and cheeses, In Horto‘s 3-course feast is different to your typical Christmas spreads whilst still maintaining the same warming festive spirit. A perfect option for cheese-lovers, vegetarians, and those already eating several Christmas dinners – this one will still impress.

In Horto
53b Southwark St
London
SE1 1RU

There are plenty of other festive events happening at the Southwark Quarter including more festive dining options and everything from shuffleboard to a space rocket advent calendar in pop-ups around the arches.  Or if Christmas is already over, check out our review of the regular menu at In Horto