Last Updated on June 22, 2024
Jackson Boxer’s Thoroughly Bourgeois Proposition with a Beating Rock’n Roll Heart
We are always looking for exciting new openings for our Restaurant of the Month series. It can be a great new room, a fantastic chef, an unexplored food style or a new service concept that tickles our tastebuds. For this month’s arti we are featuring Henri, the new bistronomic-style restaurant from chef Jackson Boxer, part of the Experimental Group’s Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. It’s a thoroughly bourgeois proposition with a beating rock’n roll heart.
The uber-cool Jackson Boxer comes from a bohemian family deeply rooted in the food industry. His grandmother, Arabella Boxer, was a celebrated food writer, and his father, Charlie Boxer, was involved in the restaurant business. This rich culinary heritage has significantly influenced his career and approach to food. As the chef-owner of several acclaimed restaurants in London, Boxer has made a notable mark on the city’s dining scene.
His ventures include Brunswick House in Vauxhall, known for its eclectic and seasonal menu, and Orasay in Notting Hill, which draws inspiration from the Hebridean islands and focuses on seafood. Boxer’s innovative cooking style and commitment to sustainability have earned him a reputation as a leading figure in contemporary British cuisine.
Henri is in the heart of Covent Garden on Henrietta Street. Sitting alongside several other well-known culinary establishments, it boasts an outdoor seating area at the forefront. Henri’s is not short of personality, inspired by Parisian bistros, its interiors have been playfully redesigned by Dorothée Meilichzon, featuring long banquettes and wood panelling, with light blues dancing alongside the warm textures of dark green and rich burgundies.
Dark bentwood chairs are tucked under white tablecloths, complemented by a hexagonal stone-tiled floor and terracotta diamond wall tiles that bring a touch of geometric elegance.
The open-plan kitchen creates a dynamic focal point, and an inviting eight-seater sharing table by the kitchen lets guests witness the culinary magic up close, fostering a lively, communal dining experience. I think we just got lucky and managed to snag a seat on the A-List table; you could feel the buzz, with Jackson at the helm and friendly staff dressed in jeans and cool white denim jackets dashing around.
With a small but finely tuned menu, it was still hard to choose – so much temptation. But first things first, elegant cocktails that packed a punch. The Buffalo Trace was like Ribena for grownups, featuring a sophisticated blend of Bourbon, Antica Formula, Sipello, Crème de Fraise des Bois, and blueberry jam. It delivered an intense Morello cherry flavour, with the sweetness perfectly balanced by the sharpness of the bourbon. The Eugénie, with its mix of tequila, olive leaf-infused Carpano Bianco vermouth, and Muyu vetiver, offered a deliciously smooth and aromatic tequila kick.
Sitting so close to the kitchen gave us inspiration for our snacks and entrees. Perched on the counter were dinky Seaweed Canelés, which were served with crème crue and trout roe. The canelé’s firm structure paired beautifully with the saltiness of the roe.
A raw oyster with green apple and Chartreuse granita was another great idea. Each plump, juicy bivalve was topped with the vegetal sweetness of the granita, and a drizzle of top-grade green olive oil for an added touch of richness.
The Raw Tuna, Green Tomato & Galia Melon was astonishingly good, with silky slices of buttery tuna and sweet bites of melon dressed in chilli and basil oil and garnished with torn basil leaves. Paired with a carafe of Castilla y Leon, Spain 2022. Barco del Corneta, Cucu, Verdejo, light and summery with chewy minerality and fruity notes.
From the Plats section – La Salade features baby gem, Parmesan, and anchovy with grilled chicken, reminiscent of a posh Caesar salad. It’s enlivened by the salty kick of anchovies and the richness of Parmesan, offering a luxurious twist on a classic.
The Brixham Cod was roasted on the charcoal grill and accompanied by a luxurious crab bisque infused with lime leaf. The umami-rich bisque, with hints of chilli, lemongrass, and Pernod, created a Southeast Asian and southern French hybrid. On the side creamy Pomme Purée and a White Salad with crisp chicory and a piquant dressing.
And for the finale – a très grand Royal Opera Torte, combining layers of different textures with a rich coffee chocolate sponge, coffee-infused buttercream, a chocolate coating, and a deliciously light Pedro Ximenez cream. Perfectly paired with Madeira Malvasia D’Oliveiras, deep and raisiny with a mouth-puckering bite.
Henri hums with soul and character, it’s the most pleasurable meal I’ve experienced at a dining table in months. So get in there while you can it’s going to be all the rage!
Henri
14, 15 Henrietta St,
Covent Garden
London WC2E 8QH
https://www.henriettahotel.com/eat