Last Updated on December 21, 2023
A delightful feast for the senses
Amidst the twinkling Christmas lights near bustling Sloane Square, a hidden gem lies behind Cadogan Hall — Kahani London. Helmed by the acclaimed Peter Joseph, former head chef of Michelin-starred Tamarind in Mayfair, Kahani is a celebration of refined Indian dining. Beyond its reputation for revolutionary Indian cuisine, Kahani has upped the ante introducing weekly jazz nights which, as a Jazz enthusiast myself, I was fortunate enough to experience and review.
On entering Kahani, an unassuming door in a classic red brick townhouse leads you downstairs to a basement space that unfolds revealing an elegant setting gilded with luxe features. The ambience is one of sophistication – high ceilings, plush armchairs, stylish macramé chandeliers and stunning white linen-covered dining tables while food is prepared in an open-to-view kitchen. The lighting, thoughtfully dimmed, sets a comfortable and atmospheric tone.
Welcomed with genuine warmth by the front of house, we were taken to our cosy table nestled by a fireplace (though not real) which was the ideal setting for winter. Though if you’re looking for exclusivity with a group there is a spectacular private dining room that looks out over the main room or even hidden snugs to eat in private.
Arriving promptly, we noticed that for early birds or those that fancy it, there’s a lengthy cocktail bar where you can enjoy a pick me up to get you (even more) in the mood. Choosing something from the extensive menu is no mean feat. We were very tempted by the Jazz tasting menu, of which there is a vegetarian alternative, but eventually selected an array of dishes from the a la carte menu. While waiting for our first courses, an amuse-bouche of poppadums, accompanied by three homemade chutneys arrived, confirming from the outset we were in for a culinary treat.
Kicking things off with a glass of crisp, bubbly champagne is always a treat and paired perfectly with the small plates we shared.
The grilled scallops with a red pepper and sesame blend were a masterpiece. Cooked to perfection, succulent and tender, the sauce, with its softly spiced flavours, complemented the delicate taste of the scallops. Glorious.
The coorgi black chicken with Mangalorean pounded spice packed a perfect punch, resting atop a cooling lime green yoghurt sauce.
Moving swiftly on to ‘Kahani Klassiks’. Char grilled monkfish with turmeric quinoa kichadi and Tandoor lamb chops rich with Kashmiri chilli and warm clove. Both were beautifully cooked and presented, but the lamb stole the show for us, flavourful, tender meat that fell off the bone with a subtly sweet yoghurt sauce on the side. I could have walked away and been satisfied with this dish alone.
Pausing to let the food settle, we chose a delicious bottle of 2018 Cotes du Rhone and took the time to appreciate the smooth sounds of Jazz. Being tucked away to one side of the restaurant we weren’t in the best position to view the Jazz Dynamos – renowned for their performances at Ronnie Scotts – but their music created the perfect ambience with sweet sounds of the 70s and 80s guilty pop pleasures, along with swing and Latino classics. A real treat but I would recommend a more central seat if you want to watch the performers in action.
Next up, we delved into the delicious realm of curries. First the Goan fish curry, a flavourful stone bass simmered with freshly ground whole spices, kokum and fenugreek, in a deeply aromatic tomato and coconut-based sauce – to die for. Following suit, we plunged into the laal mass Jaipuri lamb curry. Impressively rich without being overly heavy, it was infused with earthy flavours that provided a comforting warmth from the inside out. And not to be overlooked was the lamb itself, tender enough to melt in the mouth.
Both curries had just the right level of spice and the kind of super silky, creamy sauce that should only be mopped up with naan bread. They didn’t have peshwari on the menu but our waiter very kindly insisted that the chef make some for us which we appreciated hugely. On the side, light and fluffy saffron rice.
We almost made the rookie error of skipping dessert but the trio of kulfi – rose, pistachio, and jackfruit – proved to be a light and delicate conclusion, perfectly capping off a night of indulgence.
Kahani feels as much a restaurant as it does an experience. Peter Joseph’s culinary creations are true works of art, blending modern techniques with traditional Indian flavours. The mastery of their cooking is undeniable. The attentive, informed and friendly staff took great care of us throughout and it was a thoroughly enjoyable evening. I highly recommend visiting on a Thursday to enjoy the Jazz – what a feast for the senses!
Kahani London
1 Wilbraham Place
London,
SW1X 9AE
