Last Updated on March 9, 2024
This year Bristol is celebrating the 650th anniversary of receiving its Royal Charter from Edward II with lots of events, so this summer is an excellent time to visit the Southwest’s biggest city and its cultural and foodie capital.
Introduction
My introduction to Bristol this July wasn’t very summery at all. I arrived on a wet Tuesday afternoon, dropped my bags at my hotel and immediately set out to explore, thankful that I’d packed my waterproofs. It wasn’t long before I started to enjoy myself as I strolled around Bristol’s busy Harbourside. From a big choice of attractions, I decided to focus on the Arnolfini art gallery and Brunel’s SS Great Britain. The next morning I headed uphill to Clifton to see another of Brunel’s famous engineering marvels, the Clifton Suspension Bridge, take in the views across the city and explore Clifton village. After a delicious lunch at Kibou Japanese Restaurant & Bar, there was still time to fit in a very surprising tour of Wake the Tiger – Bristol’s unique “amazement” park – before my train whisked me back to London.
Brunel’s SS Great Britain
Called “the greatest experiment since the creation” on its launch in 1843, the SS Great Britain was the world’s first modern ship – a transatlantic ocean liner built by engineering genius Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Now it’s Bristol’s leading visitor attraction. I’ve been on several dry-docked museum ships in the past, generally trailing behind my more enthusiastic brother and father. However, I’d never visited one like the SS Great Britain, which provides an immersive and atmospheric insight into what travel on such a ship would have been like for our ancestors.
I’d arrived with just half an hour to spare, not realising what a rewarding experience visiting SS Great Britain was going to be. A worried tourist called out to me as she was leaving insisting I should sprint to steerage as it was so “amazing”. She wasn’t wrong. My interests lie more in social history than the ins and outs of engineering but there is something for everyone here. The SS Great Britain gives you a real sense of time and place as you become immersed in the sights, sounds and smells of another age.
Arnolfini – Bristol’s International Centre for Contemporary Arts
Also situated along Bristol’s bustling waterfront is Arnolfini – an international centre for contemporary which also houses an independent cinema, bookshop and attractive cafe. So if you
This summer’s major exhibition – Threads: “Breathing stories into materials” – is open until 1 October 2023 and entry is free. It features work by 21 international artists and makers who explore story-telling through the medium of textiles, including Yinka Shonibare and Celia Pym. A must-see for fans of textile art.
Clifton Suspension Bridge
Another of Brunel’s masterpieces, the Clifton Suspension Bridge, looms over the city. It’s well worth going up to Clifton to see the bridge close up and take in the wide ranging views across Bristol and the Avon Gorge.
The Visitor Centre on the other side of the bridge is packed with information about how Brunel designed this marvel of civil engineering. Meanwhile, the Clifton Observatory on the near side promises great views of the bridge from its Camera Obscura and, for the very daring, there’s a cave system leading to a viewing platform in the rockface itself. Sadly, I didn’t have time to explore the Observatory but it’s on the list for my next trip to Bristol.
The view over Clifton and the Avon Gorge.
As part of Unicornfest, there are 60 unicorns placed at tourist spots all over Bristol and there’s one at each end of the Clifton Suspension Bridge. Each full-sized unicorn has been painted by a local artist while schools and other community groups have decorated 40 foals. The unicorn trail is part of Bristol’s 650th-anniversary celebrations and is running into September 2023.
Clifton Village
There’s always one place in a new city that induces a brief fantasy about moving there. On my short trip to Bristol, Clifton won this particular award. It has a real villagey feel and is packed with gorgeous Georgian architecture, interesting indie shops, food stops and lots of green spaces.
Wake the Tiger
I turned up at Wake the Tiger with very little idea about what to expect and I suspect that this is the best way to approach it. The entrance is in an unprepossessing business park, again giving little clue about what lies inside. A so-called “amazement park”, Wake the Tiger turned out to be far more amusing than most amusement parks I’ve been to.
Wake the Tiger opens by taking a good swipe at the ever-decreasing spaces that the UK’s property developers would like us to squeeze into. We were given a tour of a futuristic but cynically designed “Meridia” show home – note the impassable bed on the platform, in-home advertising displays and the screen masquerading as a window with a choice of creepy views, including the outside world on fire.
Next, we entered a world of speaking trees, before being let loose to explore. There are numerous interactive elements for children of all ages.
Wake the Tiger is packed full of tiny details, hidden doorways and downright craziness, and it manages to feel dystopian and wondrous at the same time. We shrieked when someone jumped out of a cupboard. We had presumed it was a member of the acting team but it turned out to be another guest fully entering into the spirit of Wake the Tiger.
The plan is to keep adding to this explorable world so repeat visits will always offer something new.
Kibou: Japanese Kitchen & Bar
Clifton Village is home to Kibou, a smart and welcoming Japanese restaurant that was a great spot for lunch after a busy morning.
All the Japanese classics are on the menu – from sushi to ramen and more. I chose the Salmon teriyaki don – with rice, pak choi, white cabbage and beni shoga. The sesame-encrusted teriyaki salmon was cooked to perfection and the whole bowl worked beautifully together. I also enjoyed a pot of fragrant jasmine tea, an excellent accompaniment.
Kibou is exactly the sort of restaurant I wish would open around the corner from my house. I would be in there all the time. So far London’s only branch is in Battersea but one can hope.
Moxy Bristol – Hotel
I stayed at Moxy Bristol, a new hotel (2022) that is part of the Marriott Bonvoy group but from a stylistic point of view bears little relation to any Marriott I’ve ever stayed in. Moxy is modern, colourful, playful and all about having fun. On arrival, guests are offered a free cocktail (or mocktail), setting the tone for an enjoyable stay. Moxy Bristol is on the edge of St Pauls, opposite the cavernous Cabot Centre shopping mall. I recommend picking up a map of the city from the helpful reception staff before heading out to explore.
There is work by local artists all over Moxy Bristol. For example, you can see work by street artist Lucas Antics in the bar and lobby area, and there’s a neon art installation from another Bristol artist, Myles-Jay Linton.
Rooms and en-suite bathrooms are simple and slightly utilitarian but perfectly comfortable. Expect stylised racking rather than old-fashioned wardrobes, lots of power points, decent WIFI, and a TV that allows you to hook up to your own Netflix account. One thing I couldn’t get control of was room temperature. The hotel had over-optimistically swapped to summer-weight duvets – presumably expecting summer to have arrived and stayed.
I’m glad I wasn’t sharing my room as there’s a lovely seating snug for one, perfect for reading, watching TV and scrolling so you don’t have to perch on the bed.
Breakfast at the Moxy is a help-yourself affair and there is a huge selection of hot foods, cereals, fruit and yoghurts, cold cuts, and baked goods. Importantly, there are two self-service coffee machines churning out perfectly decent flat whites etc.
There are plenty of healthy-ish options on the Moxy’s breakfast spread and I started with good intentions and the yoghurt and berries. However, sometimes something is just too tempting to ignore – this time it was the waffles with streaky bacon and maple-flavoured syrup. Next time I stay at a Moxy it might be the bright pink iced doughnuts.
The Moxy is excellent value for money but offers far more than many similar hotels. There is a large amount of public space, a bar, a 24-food service, a gym, a photo booth, a giant Jenga and other games, table football, pool table – it would be an excellent place to stay with children and teens.
Bristol has loads to recommend it for a long weekend or midweek break and it’s well placed too for a combined trip to Bristol with nearby Bath. I didn’t manage to tick off everything on my wishlist as there is so much to do and see in Bristol – a good excuse to visit again soon.
Useful information
For general information about Bristol check the Visit Bristol website
For more about Brunel’s SS Great Britain
Check the Arnolfini website here
Bristol Suspension Bridge: https://cliftonbridge.org.uk/
Clifton Observatory: https://cliftonobservatory.com/
For more about Bristol Unicornfest
Clifton Village: https://www.discoverclifton.co.uk/shops
Do try Kibou: Japanese Kitchen & Bar
I stayed at Moxy Bristol