Oddly, Soho’s French House, where the excellent upstairs restaurant is overseen by chef Neil Borthwick, hasn’t made the 2024 showing (it made 47 last year). Neither has The Eagle (48 last year), widely considered to be Britain’s first gastropub, and still going today. Other London spots overlooked in the top 50 include the Tamil Prince, the Marksman, the Drapers Arms and the Pelican, though all are in the 50-100 ranks.
