Last Updated on December 24, 2023
Old School Sophistication in the Heart of the Square Mile at The Wolseley City
With its prime location at 160 Piccadilly, The Wolseley established itself as one of London’s premier restaurants from the day it opened in 2003. On the site of what had initially been a car showroom for the Wolseley marque but soon became a branch of Barclay’s bank, it’s the sort of place you go for a family celebration, take friends from out-of-town for a glamorous night out or simply go to be seen or indulge in a spot of people watching. It was London’s first European-style Grand Café, offering an all-day menu featuring Schnitzels, Sachertorte and Strudels. An antidote to the nouveau mega-brasseries of the 90’s such as Quaglino’s, The Wolseley was the cornerstone of the restaurant and hotel group masterminded by Chris Corbin and Jeremy King who reinvented the London scene in the 2000s by offering affordable luxury and style.
The group is no longer in the hands of Corbin and King but has continued to expand with the reimagining of Soho seafood stalwart Manzi’s (see our review). The most recent opening is The Wolseley City, on King William Street by Monument Square in the heart of the Square Mile. It’s less than a minute walk from Monument Station, a 3-minute walk from Bank Station or a 6-minute walk from London Bridge Station, making it very easy to get to.
The Wolseley City is housed in a 1920s building designed by William Curtis Green, which was previously a bank and then a House of Fraser department store. It stands as a grand and glamorous testament to exquisite interior design, boasting an unmistakable Art Deco flair and intriguingly intertwining diverse influences, including a subtle nod to Egyptian motifs and references. The restaurant exudes an undeniable air of sophistication, seamlessly blending symmetrical aesthetics and opulent architectural embellishments with a timeless colour palette of black, gold, and stone.
Imposing rectangular black and white columns, a vaulted ethereal tent-like ceiling, mirrored etched glass doors, fabulous Byzantine chandeliers, and a black and white stone-tiled floor, with tables topped in white linen and brass table lamps complete the look. Additionally, a central Art Deco staircase gracefully ascends to a mezzanine level, offering an additional layer of grandeur.
Arriving on a cold December Sunday for lunch, we were met with customary Wolseley warmth and decorum inspired by the ideals of heritage hospitality. As we were shown to our table, distant melodies of jazz played on the stereo. It is the ideal venue for an occasion, the décor is elegant, yet striking, and to celebrate we ordered two glasses of Furleigh Estate Classic Cuvée 2018, notes of citrus -lemon and mandarin with a refreshing assertive mousse.
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We received impeccable service from Jasper, who presented us with a welcome pot of fresh mini baguettes that graced the table before our starters. The Watercress, Pear, and Goat’s Curd Tart I ordered proved to be divine. Encased in a light, flaky, and buttery pastry, it was delicately infused with the peppery notes of watercress and elevated by the subtle sweetness of pear and the creamy richness of goat’s curd.
My dining companion relished a plate of meticulously prepared Soused Herrings -soft and melting in a sweet cure, adorned with lightly pickled onions and bathed in a deliciously piquant saffron sauce.
Next, I chose fish of the day, a gorgeously plated and generous portion of cod fillet, cooked to flaky perfection, accompanied by truly scrumptious black truffled crushed new potatoes and artichoke globe, complemented by a luxurious mushrooms jus that added an extra layer of decadence. I can honestly say it was the best piece of fish I’ve eaten this year, and I may just have to come back and savour it all over again.
The ‘Monument’ fish pie arrived hot from the oven and was equally tempting –tasty chunks of cod salmon, prawn, and eggs in a rich creamy sauce, topped with smooth mash. On the side a light pickled cucumber salad… salty and crunchy, the perfect foil to the richness of the mains.
The Wolseley City provides excellent value for its quality, ambience, and service, adding a touch of glamour to any occasion. With a café bar, restaurant, and private dining options, it remains open from breakfast through to late night.
68 King William Street
London
EC4N 7HR
This is our final Restaurant of the Month for 2023 – a series of features focussing on some of our favourite new openings. We have visited each one in person – and to make it onto the Restaurant of the Month list each restaurant must be somewhere we encourage you to try for yourself. Check out our round-up of this and some of our other recommended new openings in London
