Last Updated on January 21, 2025
A Winter Warmer at a Modern Gastropub
3.0 out of 5.0 stars
The OX London, a new addition to Clapham High Street as of November 2024, opened its doors promising a modern twist on the classic British gastropub. From the team behind The Rose & Crown on The Polygon, The OX had already generated buzz in the neighbourhood and when I was invited to review it, I couldn’t have been more excited.
It was a typically cold and dark January evening when I arrived, luckily my journey was a mere 10-minute walk, still, ideal weather to put a cosy pub to the test. From the outside, The OX is immediately inviting, its burgundy red façade standing out warmly against the dreary drizzle. Inside the charm continues: a warm, welcoming interior with wood panelling, vintage-style furniture and thoughtful modern touches.
Whatever the occasion, this venue has you covered. The main bar, lively and beautifully lit, is a hub of activity with an impressive selection of craft beers and spirits on display. For a more intimate dining experience, there’s a 30-cover mezzanine restaurant, while a private events room upstairs caters to groups of up to 55. In the warmer months, the rooftop terrace will undoubtedly be the place to be for a sundowner.
We were greeted warmly and shown to our cosy seats in the bar area, where the dry-aging cabinets immediately caught our eye. It makes perfect sense, knowing that all the pub’s beef is grass-fed and ethically, sustainably reared on their very own farm up in Melrose on the Scottish Borders.
Having promised myself I was doing Dry January, I fell at the very first hurdle when spotting the Green Park cocktail. Made with white rum, coconut, lime, pineapple and coriander – surely a cocktail that sounds that good doesn’t count? At least, that’s how I justified my complete lack of willpower. Served in an elegant glass, it was as delicious as it looked – refreshingly zingy with a subtle sweetness from the coconut and a creamy layer on top. A total winner.
The food menu is classic gastropub fare, with starters like Scotch Egg with pickled onion mayonnaise, Braised Lamb Neck, and Winter Burrata. It all sounded tempting but we couldn’t resist the Pan-Seared Scallops and the Gorgonzola, Walnut and Fig winter salad.
Arriving at the same time we tried the scallops first, served alongside crumbed fish croquettes, pea puree, broccolini and pea shoots. It was a heavenly combination. Seared to perfection, the scallops were coated in a delicate layer of butter, melting in the mouth, pairing nicely with the herby puree without overbearing any of the fish flavours.
The salad was tossed in a gorgeous lemon vinaigrette dressing and packed with crunchy goodness – I personally love walnuts. We both agreed it felt like a guilt-free indulgence, ticking all the boxes for a healthy dish in January that still tastes fantastic.
Mains at the OX obviously include steaks, excellent ones too, so my friend ordered the Aged fillet of British Luing beef served with triple-cooked chips. Cooked slightly rarer than her usual preference, it didn’t detract from the quality or flavour. With a perfectly seared crust and juicy tenderness, it was everything you’d want from a steak. Add those crispy, golden chips with truffle mayo and you really can’t go wrong.
As for me, I decided to steer clear of steak (as hard as that was) and went for the roasted fillet of sea bass. Paired with lemon butter velouté, Jerusalem artichoke and chive oil, it was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at. Thoughtfully plated, each bite brought a new layer of flavour. The tender, flaky fish, garnished with crunchy artichokes, paired with the slightly creamy, citrusy sauce was glorious.
If you do go for the sea bass and depending on your appetite, I’d recommend adding sides. We chose the buttered Savoy Cabbage and Maple Roasted Carrots. Both were just sweet enough with the right amount of butter to elevate your average vegetable without tipping over into “too much.” Oh and yes, I stole a few of my friend’s chips for good measure.
When it came to dessert, I’d been told the OX sticky toffee pudding was unmissable, with some even claiming it’s the best they’ve ever had. I have to say, they might be right. The stout toffee sauce was rich, and indulgent striking the perfect balance between sweet and salty. Paired with cooling, clotted vanilla ice cream and goey sponge cake, it was a knockout. I’m usually not a dessert person but this was hands down the star of the meal.
Because we were feeling indulgent (January is too miserable otherwise), we also shared a helping of mini doughnuts filled with chocolate sauce. Generous in portion, we couldn’t finish them all but they were divine nonetheless – light, fluffy and oozing with chocolatey goodness.
Overall, we thought The OX London was the perfect gastropub. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the food and drinks were top notch and the service spot on. Being so close to home, it’s a restaurant I’ll definitely be visiting again. And with a rooftop terrace waiting to be explored, summer can’t come soon enough.
THE OX,
50 Clapham High Street,
London
SW4 7UL
02030112223
https://www.theoxclapham.com
Looking for an out-of-town alternative? We’ve just reviewed The Coach in Marlow, celebrating their 10th Birthday this year. Check it out!
