Last Updated on April 30, 2024
A Day in the Country for Sunday Lunch with a View
I can’t think of any better way to spend a sunny Sunday (or even a not-so-sunny one) than a trip outside London, a walk along the river and then an excellent lunch. Hampton Court is one of my own favourite places – apart from being home to Hampton Court Palace, it’s also a charming small town on the banks of the Thames. There’s a famous and really lovely walk, a figure of eight from Hampton Court Bridge around the palace and then through Bushy Park. Rather conveniently it starts and finishes at the Mitre, an historic boutique hotel facing the Palace in one direction and the River from the other. We only managed half the route – about an hour and a half along the river then up past the Palace, but that was enough to work up the kind of appetite we needed!
1665 Riverside Brasserie at the Mitre has been under the helm of Mark Jarvis since last September. Best known for Anglo, his flagship restaurant in Farringdon, I’ve been following him on Instagram for a few years now but had lost track of what he was up to until an invite to a press dinner came my way. Sadly I wasn’t around for that event so a trip to check out his new haunt for a Sunday Lunch was very welcome. The hotel itself is worthy of a mention too. It was built in 1665 as a kind of overflow for visitors to the Palace. It became an Inn in the early 18th century and became known as ‘The Mitre Hotel’ to reinforce its connection with the Mitre Tavern in London and attract a prestigious clientele.
The Brasserie is arguably the best place for a Sunday lunch with a massive window looking out over the river. It’s small enough to feel cosy but large enough to have a good choice of dishes to eat – and it’s somewhere you can’t help but relax as you watch life go by along the river.
We started with cauliflower popcorn. It’s one of those clever dishes where you really don’t miss the meat (I’ve had the chicken version) and where if you are me, you go home wondering if you dare try to make it yourself. I’m not going to attempt to recreate this one – it was just too good and I am sure I’d be disappointed. Cauliflower florets in a light tempura with a spicy sauce and a refreshing Asian style salad made for a great appetiser.
Creamy Italian burrata came with a salad, heritage beetroot and toasted hazelnuts. A generous portion with the creamy burrata a great complement to the earthy notes of the beetroot, at this point we were both wondering if we should have skipped the cauliflower popcorn.
Thankfully the Crudo of Sustainable Seabass was a lighter option, with fine slices of fresh fish garnished with a citrusy dressing, morsels of blood orange and samphire.
There was a lot more to come.
The Mitre offers two options of Sunday Roast dishes and a selection of other mains. I found it hard to pick between Rare Breed Roast Pork Belly and Slow Roast Beef, but in the end opted for the latter. Meanwhile my companion chose the Pan-Fried Chalk Stream Trout.
The beef was spot on – perfectly rare without being undercooked and served with Yorkshire pudding, duck fat roasties, roasted root veg, greens, red cabbage and jus. It reminded me of those lazy home-cooked Sunday lunches where your mum brings out all the side dishes you’d ever imagine with a roast – and you relish every mouthful of every dish even though your initial instinct is that there’s far too much. My idea of heaven is having a cheffier version served for me in a picturesque and relaxing setting – and that was just what I got from The Mitre.
Chalk stream trout looked fabulous, with a crisp skin and perfectly cooked fish served sitting on a slice of chargrilled aubergine with pepper confit and flaked almonds – a nice twist on a classic dish. A stand-out side dish of cauli cheese with parmesan demanded that I steal a few mouthfuls and honestly would have accepted any prison sentence that the judge imposed!
By now neither of us needed dessert, despite the walk. But, in the interest of research, we chose one each.
My companion had never tried affogato. He was instantly converted – perhaps in part thanks to a paired glass of PX
The Mitre makes an excellent option for a Sunday lunch for so many reasons. Firstly, of course, the food is excellent (and good value, with the roasts at £20 or £24). Service is smooth and efficient with excellent advice on wine pairings from the sommelier. The setting is superb, especially if you manage to sit in one of the window seats. And, the location is perfect for a lazy Sunday of relaxation. Visit the Palace, take a trip along the river or walk the Hampton Court Circular. It’s 20 minutes from Waterloo by train but, you’ll be magically transported to Historic England the minute you cross the bridge.
If you don’t opt for a full meal, there’s a comfy bar too – and I for one, plan on going back soon
1665 Riverside Brasserie
The Mitre Hotel
Hampton Court Rd,
Molesey,
East Molesey,
London, KT8 9BN
