What’s your preferred type of pole saw: gas-powered, battery-powered, or manual? Why?
The type of pole saw I prefer depends on what I’m using it for. I prefer the power of a gas saw when I’m cutting a large quantity of large-diameter branches. When I only have a moderate amount of branches to cut, I like the light weight of an electric pole saw. When I need to make a precise and controlled cut, my manual pole saw is the go-to.
What other tools do you like to have on hand when performing tree maintenance?
I always have a gas-powered chainsaw for cutting larger diameter material at ground level, a pair of bypass pruners for making meticulous formative cuts on smaller diameter branches accessible from the ground, a hand saw for precision cuts on branches that are too large to cut with my bypass pruners, and safety equipment like a hard hat, safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, and steel-toed boots.
Any safety tips you want to share?
Pole saws and chainsaws are dangerous to operate, so you should always wear the appropriate personal protective equipment. A hard hat is especially important when operating a pole saw to protect you from falling branches, but eye protection, hearing protection, work gloves, and work boots are also important.
Even though you will be wearing a hard hat, you should never attempt to cut a branch that’s directly overhead that could fall on top of you. Also avoid operating a pole saw from a ladder or rooftop unless you’re experienced doing so and have the necessary safety gear. Finally, always work with another person that can call for help if an accident or injury occurs.
Safety and Tree Health
This guide would be incomplete without a few words here on health: the tree’s and yours.
- For long or heavy limbs, work from the outside in. Begin away from the tree trunk and work inward, making simple top-down cuts to shorten the limb and reduce the weight of what will fall. For the shortened piece that’s left, use the three-cut method: Make a starting cut on the bottom of the limb, and cut upward. Stop. Finish cutting from the top, making this second cut on the outboard side (away from the tree trunk) about 1 inch outward from the cut below. This will cause what’s left of the limb to fall free. Remove the stub that’s left with a simple top-down cut. You can see the method neatly illustrated here. This method prevents a falling limb from tearing away a strip of bark, permanently injuring the tree in the process.
- Always leave the branch collar, the small ridge of raised bark where the limb meets the tree. The collar contains healing cells that will help the tree close over the cut limb.
- Be vigilant over your own and other people’s safety. A falling tree limb, even a small one, can fall with enough force to embed itself in the lawn, and can easily injure you, a child, or a pet that wanders into the cut zone. Keep kids and pets inside while you work.
- Wear safety glasses. Wood chips and sawdust from cutting overhead will fall in your face, so protect yourself. If you’re sawing large limbs, invest in a chainsaw helmet and face shield.
Editors’ Note: Senior Test Editor Roy Berendsohn contributed to this article.
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