Taiko New Wave Ramen, Mackie Mayor, reviewed

Taiko, located in Mackie Mayor, is slated for a summer 2024 pop-up from the brains of New Wave Ramen, and has become so popular that it’s stuck around well into the fall, and shows no signs of moving anytime soon.

The kitchen takeover has left the focus on banging bowls of ramen at their stand-alone Manchester restaurant on Tib Lane, instead adding Karashibi’s spicy miso ramen, steamed buns, sandos and snacks such as edamame, kimchi and cucumber to the dining room menu. .

Having visited Mackie Mayor during the opening weekend of the Christmas market and with the MTV EMAs in town, I expected it to be hot, stuffy and packed. Instead, it was pleasantly busy and had a nice buzz to it without too much “Oh my God, it’s almost Christmas”. Let’s quickly catch up with those people we haven’t seen all year and meet for lunch, the kind of noise you might expect in a few weeks.

My partner Dave and I pulled up on one of Taiko’s benches, beautifully situated next to award-winning real ale and cider bar Jack in the Box, which quenched our thirst well. Dave opted for a pint of the house pilsner, while I opted for Below Brew Co’s less alcoholic – but equally exciting – Wild Juice Chase (0.5%).

Standing next to Taiko’s kitchen, perusing the menu with umami flavors wafting through my nostrils, I took a very professional and well-calculated ip-dip-do approach to ordering, choosing karaage chicken (£8), pork gyoza (£8), and wok miso (£15) which is described as “not spicy” but packed with all the great elements you could hope for in ramen; pork belly, bean sprouts, ajitama egg and of course a damn good broth.

All three dishes arrived quickly, smelled absolutely divine and were beautifully presented – especially the pork gyoza, which was fried on the bottom to prevent sogginess (oo-er), sat on a chilli oil and ponzu sauce and topped with seaweed flakes and sesame seeds.

Salty and sweet and a perfectly proportioned amount of expertly seasoned pork to keep the sides from spilling. These wonderfully fluffy little dumplings are served in a serving of six, so you won’t have to fight over the last one if you’re sharing with a partner. – Trust me, I would have been if it had come – these were a joy.

The karaage was served as a hefty portion of evenly fried pieces of fried chicken, with a generous dollop of kosho mayonnaise on the side. This hearty snack spoke for itself with just a touch of spice so it doesn’t overdo it.

The batter was almost buttery in taste and mouthfeel, but still crunchy and giving the bite you’d expect from a solid piece of fried chicken – I honestly don’t know how they do it, but bravo to them for doing it. I came back again and again for this dish alone.

Dave, a self-confessed ramen fanatic, was already a few mouthfuls deep in the wok miso and hadn’t beeped – a good sign because you usually can’t keep him quiet. When he wasn’t looking, I grabbed a ladle full of broth and gave it a good swig. God, these guys know what they’re doing when it comes to Ramen. Packed to the brim with delightful toppings and plenty of noodles, this bowl of delicious broth is well worth the £15.

It’s no wonder New Wave Ramen was able to open its own downtown location after gaining such a loyal fan base here in Mackie Mayor. I’m glad they’ve kept their food hall and developed it into something a little more fiery and unique that appeals to the masses more in a streetfood style while still maintaining the same quality and edge they’re known and loved for.

Taiko New Wave Ramen, Mackie Mayor, 1 Eagle St, Manchester M4 5BU

Follow Harley Young at X @Harley__Young