Last Updated on December 18, 2024
Bottomless Prosecco brunch with a London view
4.0 out of 5.0 stars
Instantly evoking hedonistic wild parties, Savage Garden’s quirky name comes from the City of London side street underneath, itself named after an aristocrat living here during Charles I’s reign. Seconds away from Fenchurch Street and tourists photographing The Tower, this pocket of Samuel Pepys’ London is thick with history and merchants’ houses hiding amidst modern hotels and Victorian railway arches.
On the twelfth floor of the Doubletree by Hilton Hotel, Savage Garden has a luxurious demeanour spiriting you away from the gift shops below. Tall windows show off a sweeping panorama from Tower Bridge towards the City. There’s a long balcony to perch on stools towards the river with a cocktail or indoor tables to enjoy the food.
Initially, a weekend lunchtime visit saw a quiet Zen garden. It got busier after 2pm and being December, London’s skyline sparkled as dusk approached. Savage Garden’s Brunch Club menu (Saturdays, 12-3pm) offers a Bottomless Prosecco menu deal for £60pp comprising main, side and dessert to enjoy alongside 90 minutes’ unlimited fizz. I should explain here that the manager was keen we try several of their savoury dishes – explaining this crazy quantity for two ladies.
Soy Cured Salmon Poke bowl (£12) first. This is a sensible dish if you’re watching what you eat. It’s good to a health conscious option available. Bottomless brunch and sensible are not exactly terms that sit together. The tightly packed ring was served tartare style with chopped ingredients including edamame and seaweed. Elegant, yes – but less sexy than other dishes here. For well-behaved brunch avoiding the bread and eggs elsewhere on the menu, pick this. I’d gladly eat it for midweek lunch but for a weekend treat let’s move on to something more indulgent.
Far more exciting was Asian Style Seared Beef Flatbread (£14), chunky seared beef cut into pink strips with root veg slaw and dippy egg. It’s not too spicy, there was plenty to get your teeth into. The rectangle of flatbread underneath soaked up the tangy Nam Tok sauce and helps stop the bubbles going to your head.
Stealing the show at Savage Garden was side dish “Bang” Cauliflower Wings (£6.50). The vegan “wing” concept has struck me as pointless before, but these were divine. A thick, truly finger-licking spiced coating, enough bite in the floret to mimic a chicken wing, yet meat-free. I could gladly pop back for a bowl of these alone. First served for Veganuary, they were such a hit they’ve stayed permanently.
The bowl of Green Plantain (£6.50) crisps with guacamole dip was huge, enough to share. I’m not a plantain fan but these were tasty root crisps in big swirling pieces, nothing like the shrivelled parsnip efforts sold in bags. Perfect with drinks.
As an extra sample, we cut into the colourful Beef Burger (£15). Packed with layers of crispy bacon, corned beef, egg and veg slaw, it’s a squidgy cuddle of a burger in a soft blue matcha brioche bun. We both attacked the components with our forks; there’s a lot going on in this burger if you ate a whole one. Alongside the Savage Fries (£6.50) with black garlic aioli, if you were ordering outside of the Prosecco brunch deal, burger and chips at £21.50 in this location and setting would be a steal.
Our server had earlier somewhat undersold the Chicken Bao Buns (£9) as being more a starter portion hence I’d not previously ordered them. Yet with shared side dishes you’d not be short changed. The bao buns were marshmallow soft with a sparky filling of gochujang glazed chicken, pickled radish and carrot.
The biggest surprise was getting to sample the dish I’d almost ordered. Pulled Funky Mushroom (£9) with slaw, miso dressing and glazed tofu; except the menu hadn’t said it was also served on flatbread meaning it was a more substantial dish than the description conveyed. The mushroom pieces were deeply textured shiitake threads, the tofu a giant sauced slab. I wished I’d stuck with my original plan to order it. An imaginative vegetarian dish.
To finish, two splendid Christmas cocktails. Mistletoe Bubbles (£14), Santa’s hat as a flute glass dipped in white chocolate and filled with red Lillet aperitif, raspberry, pomegranate and champagne. Gin-gle Bells (£14) is a striking gothic blueberry gin cocktail with basil syrup and aquafaba foam, in a black coupe glass with redcurrants and raspberry leather decoration. Much stronger – I might not stand after two – and packing a great basil-berry punch with aquafaba less overpowering than whisked egg white can be. Memorable cocktails that were both creative and fun.
Savage Garden’s rooftop bar offers a stylish setting with friendly staff and a classic London view. You could come for a brunch catch-up with a friend or as a bigger group at night to enjoy cocktails and the DJ. A full age range and type of customer came in. Under 18s are welcome before 6pm. I’d gladly return with my husband, girlfriends or my mum. To quote a certain Aussie pop-duo whose name springs to mind, I might have fallen “Truly Madly Deeply” in love with Savage Garden.
Savage Garden
Floor 12, 7 Pepys Street
London EC3N 4AF
££ / ****
