Last Updated on February 3, 2024
Riviera, a Taste of the Mediterranean
We are right in the middle of the worst cold snap for years so what could be more inviting than dinner at Riviera, the Mediterranean-influenced restaurant in St James from the Zandi brothers’ Emerald Hospitality Group (Como Garden, Zuaya and El Norte). Situated close to the Economist building on St James’s Street, Riviera takes over the gorgeous space previously occupied by the Hakkasan groups’s cherry blossom strewn Sake no Hana and ‘takes inspiration from the French Rivera hotspots Saint-Tropez, Cannes, Nice, and Antibes.’
Downstairs is a buzzy bar, while the restaurant is upstairs, accessed via an escalator, it boasts a large space with very high ceilings, a stunning long-window outlook onto St James and an open-plan kitchen.
The decor is a symphony of textures, incorporating raffia panels, earthenware pots, a hexagonal light wood tiled floor, attractive wicker and upholstery bucket chairs in muted shades and tables dressed in white linen. Along with a glistening featured bar, Riviera effortlessly marries the chic allure of the French Riviera with the timeless elegance intrinsic to St James.
To start the evening, a glass of fizz, Cremant d’Alsace Jean-Baptiste Adam, dry, light and refreshing, with top notes of grapefruit. We nibbled on moreish lemon-marinated olives and homemade baguettes with lashings of butter.
For starters, not one, but three tasty dishes! One of the wonderful culinary experiences on the Riviera is cheese-stuffed courgette flowers, here fresh and delicate, a whole perky young baby courgette with its flower in a wonderfully light tempura batter stuffed with a soft and creamy mild goats’ cheese and rich truffle filling.
Next some delicately diced tuna tartare with creamy avocado, and a drizzle of basil-infused oil imparting a fragrant and herbaceous note. And a celebration of simplicity with a soft and velvety burrata, paired with succulent and sweet roasted tomatoes.
We moved on to the honeyed lime and peach notes and well-balanced acidity of a 2020 Chablis, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Burgundy.
For our mains, I enjoyed slow-cooked, tender baby chicken, topped with a bountiful and earthy mound of juicy sautéed wild mushrooms, and luxurious truffle shavings.
My companion ordered the Poulpe Grillé & Chimichurri Mediterranean avec Purée de Chou-Fleur, recalling an excellent grilled octopus’ dish from our visit to the same group’s Zuaya restaurant. Here, he was served a generous portion – wonderfully charred and beautifully succulent, accompanied by a smooth cauliflower purée. On the side, we indulged in velvety mashed potatoes, alongside the vibrant medley of ratatouille enhanced with the tang of feta.
Riviera staff are welcoming and friendly, contributing to an experience that carries a touch of glamour, making it feel like a rather special and sophisticated night out.
Riviera, 23 St James’s St, London SW1A 1HA.
