Last Updated on September 24, 2024
Steak, Stile Italiano
Last week I dined at the Soho branch of Macellaio RC. I entered the restaurant thinking to myself: ‘What makes a steak Italian?’ At a Macellaio restaurant, the answer is dry-ageing and a flare for the dramatic. The menu is printed to resemble a broadsheet, the candles are made of beef fat and the waiter that delivers your steak gives a triple-wrap of the cloche to uncover a serious cut of meat.
Macellaio RC, founded by Roberto Costa, opened its doors in Soho most recently but has two other locations in South Kensington and Exmouth Market. The menu at Macellaio proudly declares in Costa’s own words: “When alone, I am Roberto…when I am together with my team, we simply become Macellaio RC”. Indeed, the experience given to diners at the restaurant is a team effort, with the front-of-house staff perfectly executing their duties in welcoming and instructing guests about the food on offer.
My companion and I started our meal with some toasted bread served with the aforementioned beef candle. When lighted, the wick slowly melts to allow beef fat to fill the plate which was perfect for dipping. This slightly unusual start to the meal suitably prepared me for the flavours that were to follow. We also had two glasses of the delicate Profondo Prosecco hailing from the Veneto region of Italy.
For a starter, I chose the steak tartare on the logic that the restaurant ought to be able to deliver its beef whether cooked or raw. And deliver it did, served with a perfectly formed egg yolk, the tartare, seasoned in the French style was classically good. Macellaio also offers other forms of raw beef including battuta Albese for those so inclined. My dinner companion (a pescatarian) elected to have the octopus bruschetta, which was well-seasoned and elevated by its various accoutrements. Paired with our starters, on the recommendation of the staff, we had two glasses of the Toscana Bianco which was both well-balanced and delicious and easily the standout wine of the meal.
Following the starters, the star of the show was up next. As the main attraction at the restaurant, the steak had to deliver. I chose the costata cut from the loin of the cow, cooked medium rare which I was told would be preferable to my usual order of rare to just help get the rendering of the meat’s fat over the line.
When the six hundred grams of ribeye was presented to me, I admit that I was a little intimidated but then immediately surprised at how easily I cleared the plate. I was impressed at how extremely tender the meat was and at how it had been seasoned subtly with just oil and salt to allow all of its flavours to work in concert. All the beef at Macellaio is sourced from Fassona Piemontese cattle raised around the valleys of North Genoa. Typically raised on grains and hay, the beef is lean, but it doesn’t sacrifice on the richness of its flavour or its distinctive texture. At Macellaio, Fassona beef is championed as being on par or even better than Wagyu beef, and I am inclined to agree. Complementing the steak was a glass of Negroamaro that helped cut across the richness of the beef.
My companion had the gnocchi al pesto, which was flavoursome and properly coated in its sauce. The homemade pesto was particularly a cut above the run-of-the-mill counterparts that you might find elsewhere. Like all good steakhouses, Macellaio also excels at its sides. The green salad was agreeable, but the roast carrots were especially memorable, being candied and finished with rosemary.
After all of that food dessert felt like it might be a step too far, but the tiramisu and blackberry cheesecake were both light and not excessively portioned so as to not feel overwhelming.
Overall, Macellaio performed excellently and offered a nuanced take on the typical steakhouse experience. The menus for both food and wine were well-priced and worth what was delivered. The only thing to note is that vegan diners may find the menu too restrictive in terms of choices, but otherwise, the menu has something for everyone. Macellaio Soho also offers ‘Butchery Masterclasses’ in its aptly named Butcher’s Theatre and other cooking classes including a ‘Tiramisu Masterclass’ for those wanting to go beyond dining. Macellaio has also just launched a new Italian Sunday Roast option that, based on this experience, is sure to be worthwhile.
Macellaio RC Soho is open Monday to Wednesday between 12 pm and 10 pm, with hours extending to 11 pm on all other days except Sunday when the restaurant is open until 10:30 pm.
https://www.macellaiorc.com/
