A grill room is generally a safe bet for a fussy eater, and since relaunching earlier this year, the Colony Grill Rooms is on flying form. Chef Ben Boeynaems is meticulous in the sourcing of his ingredients and it shows in his dishes, which deliver all the comfort and familiarity of classic grill food but with more consideration. The shrimp cocktail is one of the best I’ve had: big on shrimps, scant on salad, the dressing served separately so one can dip, dunk, or drizzle accordingly. The strikingly beautiful steak tartare and the rib eye with buttermilk mash and creamed spinach, my fussy friends informed me, were excellent; I was too busy losing myself in my sole meunière to care. Such food, done well, doesn’t come cheap, and for most people The Colony Grill Rooms will have to be special occasion. The staff know this, though, and they deliver on it, with attention to detail and a formality that is friendly, yet charmingly respectful.