London’s design heritage runs deep beneath the city’s surface, quite literally. For over a decade, Kirkby, the London‑based textile studio, has partnered with Transport for London (TfL) to reinterpret one of the most iconic elements of the Underground experience: the moquette. 🚇
Kirkby’s first collaboration with TfL launched in 2013, marking the 150th anniversary of the London Underground. It drew inspiration from travels across the city and designs found within the London Transport Museum archive. These patterns are inspired by eras from the 1930s to the 1990s brought back to life as modern upholstery. The collection revived iconic line-specific designs such as those used on the Northern, Piccadilly, Bakerloo, Metropolitan, Central and Hammersmith linestranslating decades of transport history into a fresh geometric aesthetic.
What is Moquette?
Derived from the French word for “carpet,” moquette is a durable woollen fabric using the jacquard technique. Historically, transport authorities chose it for public transport because of its resilience and ability to disguise wear.
First used on London transport seating in the 1920s, moquettes have become an unmistakable part of the city’s public transport design language. Many original designs were created by some of Britain’s leading textile figures, making moquette a rare intersection of everyday functionality and artistic legacy.
A quick look back at VOL.II
Following its success, UNDERGROUND VOL.II expanded the story with seven distinct velvet designs. It reworked archive pieces from the 1930s to present day, into a more contemporary palette. These designs again celebrated the rich design identity of TfL.
Jordan Mould, Brand Director at Kirkby, has often spotlighted Northern Line Moquette (1965 – a Marianne Straub classic), as his favourite, recognising its role in showcasing the breadth of British design talent within the TfL archive.
What challenges come with replicating such intricate designs?
Translating archival moquettes into luxury upholstery velvets is no simple process. Original patterns were hand‑drawn, often intricate and technically challenging to reproduce on a modern velvet loom. Kirkby’s textile specialists have recoloured and modernised these designs, whilst preserving their original character.
Introducing VOL.III
UNDERGROUND VOL.III marks the exciting next chapter in the celebrated partnership between Kirkby and TfL. This striking new collection brings together 8 reimagined archive designs. It is inspired by designs from the 1910s through to the 1970’s.
Drawing from an extraordinary history, the collection pays tribute to the creatives commissioned during Christian Barman’s visionary leadership in the 1930s icons such as Marion Dorn, Enid Marx, and Marianne Straub. Their work defined the look and feel of London transport for generations, and their influence continues to resonate across the Tube network and beyond.
With refined new palettes, UNDERGROUND VOL.III transforms historic moquette artistry into textiles for modern interiors.
This is more than a collection; it’s a celebration of London’s design heritage.
