“Deep sea fishing” is the literal translation of Haidilao, the world’s largest hotpot restaurant chain. I can now confirm that scooping food from a bubbling soup is indeed as satisfying as the restaurant’s name suggests.
I’ve had hotpot many times in China and abroad, but never Haidilao, so I visited its Piccadilly location – on Coventry Street – on a cold rainy day – the perfect weather for a steaming broth and some hands-on cooking. Ordering hotpot from the million possible combinations can be confusing, but a friendly waitress’s explanation made it easy: Choose soup bases, add food items, and mix in your own seasoning.
I prefer savory meat while my dining companion is a spice-loving vegetarian, so we ordered a double pot of half mushroom soup and half Sichuan spicy soup. As I queued for the unlimited spice bar, I donned aprons that matched those of other customers. It made me feel like part of a collective dining experience.
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Peanut sauce is the foundation of hotpot – it’s a rule I stand by – and Haidilao does it so well: a perfectly creamy one that lingers on the tongue without sticking. On this basis, you can customize with whatever you want. In my case, it’s scallions, cilantro, soy sauce, fermented tofu and a splash of spicy soup base.
When I returned to my table, the food items were already laid out by an iPad that helpfully indicated cooking times. I couldn’t resist ordering bullfrog legs for its novelty, so I was faced with four odd pairs of raw slimy things.
But after a five-minute tumbling in the pot, they emerged with a much more enticing appearance and a delicious texture – like chicken but so much more tender. Try it, because where else would you get to taste frogs?
The lamb shoulder only takes 15-20 seconds to cook
Lamb shoulder slices are a classic hotpot ingredient, and they only take 15-20 seconds to cook. You can watch the fresh blush turn gray and scoop them out for instant reward.
Fuzhou fish balls took longer to cook and, when ready, proved a slippery challenge for my chopsticks. I was pleasantly surprised to find that they hid a ground pork filling that grounded the fishy exterior.
If you’re a meat lover like me, I have a counterintuitive piece of advice: Order the potatoes and cabbage, and don’t be afraid to overcook them a little. Between each bite of meat, the mushy potatoes and soft cabbage lighten up an otherwise heavy meal.
£2.80 for our own show to memorize kung fu noodles
A commotion caught my eye: A young chef was carrying a long piece of noodle like a rhythmic gymnastic band. We watched in awe as he twirled the noodle in dazzling loops and figure-eights, the dough lengthening with each fluid stretch.
For just £2.80 we were treated to our very own kung fu noodle show. I mischievously asked if the chef could teach my friend, so he gave her an extra piece of dough, and I giggled as she struggled to imitate his spin. Our amateur noodles were a little deformed, but still delicious!
Impressed by kung fu noodles? The best was yet to come. Serenaded by Chinese music, a figure dressed in traditional opera-like garments danced forward, his face covered by a colorful red mask…no wait, a black mask!
Cape swooshing, the wizard changed through a dozen faces at moments you least expect. I heard screams and laughter around the restaurant as customers were asked to touch the mask, only to be surprised by a completely different face in an instant.
With a final flourish, the mage revealed her own face – she is a woman! I have studied rudimentary face-shifting and researched its history, so I am well aware of the male dominance of this ancient art form. I was thrilled to see a woman perform here in the heart of London. I found out that her name is Teresa, a first-year student at the University of Westminster who works at Haidilao as a waitress and performs face changes daily. So much talent!
£6.90 offer on all you can eat dessert bar
After finishing my meal I was tempted by the dessert bar – £6.90 per person – but I was too full. Instead, I chose a mung bean porridge that is included in the spice bar. It was too sweet for my taste, but could be a refreshing dessert for those with a sweet tooth.
The meal came down to around £100 for two people, so it’s definitely expensive. But I would highly recommend Haidilao for special occasions: an anniversary, a new job or a birthday – in which case the staff would bring out loudspeakers and sing “happy birthday” to you while the whole restaurant claps along. Wonderful atmosphere for a celebration if you happen to visit any of Haidilao’s three locations: Piccadilly, O2 or Birmingham.
I left the restaurant with a free face-changing toy and fond memories of Haidilao as much more than just delicious food. It’s quite an experience.
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