Last Updated on February 22, 2025
Putting on the Ritz at the Savoy
4.8 out of 5.0 stars
One of London’s most iconic restaurants, The Savoy Grill has always had a special place in my heart. At a time when a revolution was happening in the city with the growth of restaurants showcasing all kinds of cuisine, the Savoy Grill was a beacon of traditionalism and heritage.
You were shown to your table, pulled carefully back to make sitting down easier and handed a menu – for women, there were no prices because the man was, of course, going to pay the bill. You’d be offered a glass of champagne from the trolley and you’d order from a list of classic dishes that included a range of steaks or Dover sole as the main course and crepes Suzette for dessert. Between each course, the waiter would appear with a little brush and pan to sweep away any bits of food that might have accidentally appeared on the table. At the end of the meal, another trolley would appear with a range of spirits and liqueurs. My first experience, about 25 years ago, was seminal.
The hotel, itself a London landmark, was founded in 1889 by Richard D’Oyly Carte – the first in Britain to have electric lights, hot and cold running water in every room and electric lifts (elevators) throughout the building. During the 20th Century, both the Savoy and the Savoy Grill grew in popularity, a favourite of royalty, politicians, and Hollywood stars, including Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin, and Marilyn Monroe. Ruled with a rod of iron by Cesar Ritz the original kitchens were run by Auguste Escoffier, perhaps the world’s first celebrity chef. It remained open during World War II, a social hub and refuge and in the post-war period continued to attract an A-list clientele.
In 1998, the Savoy Group, which included the hotel, was sold to a private equity firm. Management of the Savoy Grill was taken over in 2003 by celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, while the hotel changed hands a number of times eventually undergoing a major renovation between 2007 and 2010 to restore much of the Art Deco elegance. The Savoy Grill was most recently reimagined and renovated in 2023 to retain the personality of the space, including the stunning art deco screens and Swarovski chandeliers while elevating the space to create a lighter dining environment. We haven’t visited since that refurbishment and were curious to find out whether the Grill still lived up to our expectations.
Seated in one of the booths around the edge of the restaurant was almost like a homecoming. White linen on the tables and elegant velvet banquette seating in a room that was full of stunning Art Deco designs. As the wonderfully attentive yet never intrusive front-of-house team served a glass of Champagne Coeur des Bar Blanc de Noir Devaux and brought menus for us, the only challenge was how to enjoy some of the dishes we knew and loved from times gone by without missing out on the new creations.
We were initially very hesitant about the marmite brown butter which accompanied the malted sourdough offered at the start of the meal. Despite being ‘on-paper-haters’ we both agreed that this subtle nutty marmite butter was actually a win, so do give it a try and see if you are convinced.
Omelette Arnold Bennett was first introduced to the Savoy Grill by Jean Baptiste Virlogeux, a chef at the Savoy Grill in London, who created the dish for the British author Arnold Bennett in 1929. Today’s version was created by Gordon Ramsay, a lighter and more contemporary Arnold Bennett Souffle with smoked haddock and Montgomery cheddar sauce. My companion treated me to a mouthful of what I can genuinely say is a wonderful interpretation of a classic – full of flavour and yet in no way overly rich.
His wine pairing of a classic Burgundy white chardonnay Saint Aubin Blanc ‘Le Ban’ Dom Henri Prudhon was excellent and worked well with the souffle
Smokin Brothers whisky and soy cured salmon with crapaudine beetroot, walnut and horseradish was another classic dish, elevated by fabulous quality salmon and well-balanced accompaniments. With it, a glass of Gaja IDDA Bianco an exquisite white Sicilian 100% Carricante wine blend from the Gaja winery was fresh, with notes of melon and citrus.
We spent some time trying to decide on the best main course. The first time I had a Chateaubriand to share was at the Savoy Grill so, instead of choosing the signature Beef Wellington, we ended up picking that and were not disappointed. Chateaubriand, named after François-René de Chateaubriand, a 19th-century French Romantic writer, is the finest centre cut from beef fillet, cooked as one large piece then cut into thick slices and served with a classic sauce or two. We chose Béarnaise sauce and a red wine jus from the options – there’s also peppercorn, chimichurri and café de Paris butter.
Aged in-house, the beef was perfectly cooked to medium rare and well-rested so that it was wonderfully tender and full of flavour.
We both enjoyed a glass of Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2018, a soft red wine with notes of black cherries and leather and with light, silky tannins.
To accompany, a buttery, smooth pommes purée and sautéed spinach was all we needed.
For dessert, we shared the apple tart tatin with Madagascan vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce which had a lovely crisp pastry base and wonderfully caramelised apples.
A glass of Tokaji was the perfect dessert wine, while my companion opted for a Courvoisier.
The Savoy Grill is an institution – and I’m glad to report that the food at the Savoy Grill led by executive Head Chef Arnaud Stevens was on point. Front of House, in the capable hands of Thierry Tomasin, the restaurant director, was charming and while the menu is still full of the classic dishes I remember, some excellent innovations fit seamlessly into this most British of British restaurants.
Savoy Grill – Gordon Ramsay
Savoy Hotel
The Strand
London
WC2R 0EU
Looking for something different? How about Gordon Ramsay’s latest opening, Lucky Cat Bishopsgate?
