Why book
To feel like a member of the family at one of London’s most beloved restaurants
Set the scene
Right on Portobello Road, the pickle-green exterior of Dishoom’s Permit Room is forever accented by a cool crowd – either at the sun-stricken outdoor tables, or at the long bar inside topped with masala peanuts and colourful drinks. There’s always a bit of a buzz here; perhaps it’s no coincidence that, of the various themes that guide Dishoom locations, the Permit Rooms are dedicated to the watering holes of India’s 1970s prohibition era. But if you are standing on the street, cast your eye upward to the cheerful windows that look out on the Portobello market stalls with the words “Lodging” painted beside them. Book a stay here, and that will be your home for the weekend.
There’s something undeniably cool about walking through the restaurant like you own the place, waving at the bartender before climbing the side stairs, past the dining room and up to the two-bedroom apartment on the third floor. There’s only one apartment available, but you’ll still get the perks of a hotel (turndown service, magically refreshed minibar daily, a number to call down to), with other services only a restaurant like Dishoom could provide (the famous naan and egg breakfast sandwiches delivered to your door, for example). Like an Airbnb, there is no reception, and nobody sitting around after hours. You hold the key to this place.
The rooms
The entire apartment, like the permit Room itself, has a funky, laidback 70s feel to it. Warm browns and yellows create a nostalgic palette, with details like rattan chairs, bamboo blinds, and a record player solidifying the look. And it’s not just for looks: the record collection is seriously impressive. Original art (all of which is for sale, lucky you) curated by gallerist Rajiv Menon adorns the walls, featuring trippy illustrations, and colourful portraits, among a TV-disguised-as-painting in the living room. It’s easy to believe this is a real apartment (there are even houseplants, and they’re much healthier than the ones in my home) but the decor is so spot on, only your most aesthetic of friends would live here. The two bedrooms, painted in a gentle baby blue with marble side tables and flapper-style fringe lamps, feel inviting, which is to say nothing of the down-heaven that is the beds. Gigantic, overstuffed pillows and plush toppers make it easy to hit snooze each morning – though the Dishoom breakfast will ensure you do spring out of bed when the doorbell rings.
The bathrooms, meanwhile, feel spa-serene with warm tiles and heady Mauli bath products, like the Dishoom-specific body wash featuring bergamot and sandalwood. Any hotel-lover will appreciate that, even in this one-key stay, robes and slippers await, as does a Dyson-like hair dryer. Did I mention there’s central air conditioning, controllable in-unit? (A lifesaver during the heatwave that hit during my stay.)
The living room, with its couches, dining table, drinks cabinet, and bar, invite you to linger with friends; though with a location this great, it’s hard not to feel the pull of everything else the city below has to offer.
Food & drink
If you’re here, it’s surely because you appreciate a good meal – and a Dishoom meal. On arrival, overheated and weighed down with luggage, we were immediately sat at the bar with drinks and cheesy naan bites, before being taken to our room. The frozen Kiwi Colada washed the travel right off of me, before members of the restaurant team rolled up their sleeves and kindly grabbed our bags. Breakfast is included in your stay, so each evening you mark up the hot breakfast, hot drink, and juice you want brought up at the specified hour the following day, and leave your menu hanging on your door (you can also toddle down for breakfast, but I can never resist the allure of room service in the morning). While the naan breakfast sandwiches were delightful as always, one order easily serves two – coconut yogurt bowls were some of the lighter fare, topped with a kaleidoscope of fresh fruit. Of the fresh juices, there are classics like orange, but also extractions of ginger and turmeric (ideal for those wanting to stay well during a busy trip). There’s a constant supply of mango lassi in the fridge, and yes: that famous Chai. Come lunch or dinner, there’s always a table with your name on it downstairs, where a robust cocktail menu is supported by classic Dishoom dishes (the black daal, that ruby curry) and Permit Room specialties like the spicy chicken puff, a snack that harkens back to Mumbai’s Irani cafes. While cocktails can be ordered up at any time, the mini bar in the room will keep you covered with pre-mixed negronis and the like. As if we were really staying at a friend’s home, a tray of buttery little nankhatai cookies always seemed to magically replenish itself.
Wellness
There’s no gym or spa here, but this is a stay for the traveller who plans to eat and drink their way through the city, anyway. Hyde Park isn’t far if you brought your running shoes.
Eco effort
All the water bottles are glass, thankfully, and the daily refresh doesn’t need to involve a full change of sheets and towels. Beyond that there’s no big messaging about the environmental efforts – but then again, it’s a one-bedroom hotel, so the sustainable choices are yours to make.
Accessibility
Stairs are required to access the room, and there is no lift. Travellers with mobility issues should definitely enquire before booking.
Anything left to mention
This really is a foodies stay – beyond just the fact that it gives you easy access to Dishoom’s Permit Room. Your entrance is directly across from the kitchen responsible for such beloved flavours. That means you will likely be coming face-to-face with runners when you leave your room, which makes you feel like a real member of the team. On one unlucky morning, it did mean we heard a freezer alarm that went off quite early, and for quite a while – though I’m told it was a bit of an unlucky, and unusual, coincidence. The benefits of living in a working restaurant far outweigh the fleeting inconvenience: in addition to the little treats and drinks they ply you with, a pamphlet in the room details all the best restaurants throughout the city, and the team downstairs will happily call their friends to help you snag a table at one of them. Talk about feeling like one of the gang. It’s an access worth paying for, especially if you’re here to make the most of the city.
£
