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Well, mostly. Prices appear to be from a very different part of town — not quite New Cross, but not far off. On weekdays, there’s a set lunch, two courses for £21, three for £25. From it, you could get pumpkin soup flecked with toasted hazelnuts followed by a beef and veal ragu, the kind that is as familiar and comforting as a favourite winter coat. Or a great wedge of startlingly fresh bruschetta followed by orecchiette, that boxed ear pasta, coated in silky Genovese pesto and with chopped green beans. These are not dishes that challenge, confront or provoke — but then, sea urchins and tripe aside, Italian food rarely does. Nipotina exists to assuage stresses that exist only outside its door.
