“Bloody delightful”: Linden Stores, Knutsford, reviewed

It’s a bistro with small plates and a hip ‘low intervention’ wine shop on the side in a quaint, almost Dickensian street in Knutsford, Cheshire. It’s not a grocery store that sells chewing tobacco and gold mining supplies in Baron’s Knee, Wyoming. Apparently, the name comes from the road where the chef used to live. I’ll leave it at that, and don’t mention Google to the marketing team.

Knutsford has a lot of banality when it comes to restaurants. Except for the chippy Hooked on the Heath, which is blind. s’ Editor David ‘Beardy’ Adamson had selected Linden Stores for me to review; she knows how much I love small plates. And some intervention wines.

I support family independents at every turn. They put their ball on the line. Support them, they are worth it.

“But it’s nice, Gordo. Cozy. And look at the local press they get,” David says under his breath. “It’s the END in a charming town! It’s capturing the hearts and taste buds of Cheshire’s foodies! They’ve had a DREAM Gastronomic Experience!”

Reading the local Shires type magazine reviews, usually written by arseholes DESPERATELY to please, I suspected David would take a FUCKING PISS.

Anyway, I picked up the grandson, who was waving – no doubt worried about where his next crack was coming from – and walked to Knutsford.

Linden Stores is owned by a couple who work as a team. The female side of the partnership runs the front of the house, the male the kitchen. Having spent many years in France, sometimes selling a business, others to avoid bailiffs, this is usually a good sign. The appearance can indeed be described as charming.

When it comes to interior design, wine is not the only minor intervention. They haven’t bothered Farrow and Ball, the chairs have been ‘rescued’ from a closed pub in Wythenshawe, ‘distressed wood’ The wall coverings were courtesy of a comatose lorry driver who was spending the night at Knutsford Services carrying empty pallets. , while the toilets were spotless.

I loved the place. And Ella, our server.

There is a chef’s menu for £40. It consists of five courses. Then there are the four “extras” expertly sold by Ella. I think there is a la carte.

A glass of unoaked white Rioja tickled my fancy, £30 a bottle, £5 a glass. I like white wines from Spain, they have improved since my father described them as weak oil rigs in the 70s. This Gran Cerdo is a better choice than New World. What could not be said of the pickled clams which Ella sold me for £7; the cure killed them, the trout roe was similarly superior, but the thin slices of fennel were good. Think again, chef.

The house focaccia was amazing, the sea salt butter reminded me of Anglesey when I was a fat, red haired, freckled child. The farm near which we stayed on our vacation sold their own, full of salt crystals. Happy days. Harry inhaled three of the four slices. Cheshire smoked duck with pickled walnuts was a real little day out, still a bit warm, bitter greens nicely dressed. I loved this and wanted another plate to make sandwiches with that bread and butter. But I behaved myself.

The bubble and squeak croquettes were meatier than I thought, the crust was nice and crispy with a big marmite mayo. Chef, I adore it.

Isle of Man Scallops with Cauliflower and Chilli Lemon Butter had four thick roes (extras), all with a coarse cauliflower mash surrounded by little florets. They can be toasted, topped with chili-lemon butter and toasted breadcrumbs for added texture. This could have been awkward. It wasn’t and marks this chef’s talent as one to watch.

The same goes for his venison, celery, smoked shallots and quince. All perfectly cooked, sitting on celery puree. Big flavors work together. I loved the shallots. But therein lies the problem. These two foods should not be served next to each other on a vertical taster. They are too “similar” in structure and the number of flavor points exceeds somewhat. Separately, they are dynamite.

The chocolate and peanut butter tart was starting to worry me. On a scale of 10, wealth looked like a 12. “The peanut butter in there solves it, grandpa,” notes the stoner. “And that slightly sour whipped cream sharpens it up nicely.”

Blimey, he was right.

Looks like there’s also a great pastry chef at work.

I had a 6N Turkey, 2021, Karasakiz Merlot to serve chilled and it worked well with two “large” plates, scallops and venison. Growers are a bit cheeky about the price point (£48), but the standout cherry tag turns me on.

I liked Linden Stores.

It’s a great addition to Knutsford, which relies too much on chains; there are a couple of good ones, but generally it’s a bit, well, boring. Beautiful, but a beautiful person with no personality is quickly cast aside. This couple is off to a good start in changing that. I support family independents at every turn. They put their balls on the line, as I have for five generations. Support them, they’re worth it and will improve from their current offering, which is still damn lovely.

Linden Stores, 15 Minshull St, Knutsford WA16 6HG