Last Updated on December 27, 2023
A Cosy Haven for Culinary Delights in Bloomsbury
Bistro Bleu is perched atop the freshly refurbished Rugby Tavern in the heart of London’s charming Bloomsbury district. This venerable Victorian London pub has recently undergone substantial renovations as part of the Berkeley Inns portfolio. Built on land donated by the founder of Rugby School, it sits on the corner of the street offering a lovely outside space under a canopy of mature trees. Inside you’ll find a traditional old-school Bloomsbury boozer with glazed tile walls and a handsome horseshoe bar.
We visited during the bustling pre-Christmas week, and both the pub and the restaurant were alive with the energy of festive gatherings. The restaurant is entered via an unassuming entrance on Great James Street, the contrast between the traditional British pub ambience downstairs and the classic French bistro and Gallic gastronomy upstairs at Bistro Bleu adds an interesting dimension, laying the foundation for a unique dining experience.
Bistro Bleu is run by Parisian-born General Manager Reynald Tel and Head Chef Bernard Dumonteil from Lorraine in North Eastern France. Together they promise an authentic experience of their homeland’s finest seasonal comfort food, seamlessly blending flavour-rich Francophile magic with a subtle British accent.
The restaurant’s interior radiates an intimate and stylish charm, with an understated art deco edge. Air Force blue-painted walls showcase the elegance of impressionist watercolours, while the windows are draped in plush mustard-coloured velvet curtains. The presence of an open fireplace, a parquet floor and a small bar in the corner adds to the cosy ambience, complemented by elegant chairs and a dark blue velvet banquette along one wall, and tables adorned with small lamps, casting a warm glow, enhanced by the tasteful festive decorations and twinkling lights.
We were provided with friendly service, even though they were rushed off their feet with several large Christmas party groups. To get into the festive spirit we began with a classic Martini, with Absolut vodka and an olive, and a Negroni made with Tanqueray gin, Lillet Rouge and Campari… the perfect way to kick off our evening.
We started our meal with a dish of thick-cut, treacle-cured salmon, the richness of treacle cure and fresh apple effectively contrasting with the sour crunch of the pickled carrot. The sweet balsamic roasted beetroot tart tatin was encrusted in a flaky pastry, and topped with a breadcrumbed goat’s cheese fritter which was satisfyingly soft and creamy.
Bistro Bleu has a good-looking wine list with some interesting options; we chose the White Burgundy, Saint-Veran Les Chatenays, Domaine Carrette 2020, with top notes of lemon, good acidity, balanced by a buttery creaminess.
For mains, the menu offers a tempting selection of bistro dishes with something for everyone from Pancetta Wrapped Monkfish, Crispy Duck Leg, Chalk Steam Trout, Braised Rabbit, Roasted Butternut squash, Baked Courgette and Quinoa Cannelloni to Bavettes and Ribeye Steaks.
Our choices stayed firmly in the realm of seasonal comfort food…my companion described his fish pie as a lovely winter’s bistro dish, packed with chunks of salmon and soft braised leeks in smooth and buttery sauce topped with mashed potato. My braised ox cheek bourguignon was culinary cosiness …rich and tender, served with pureed parsnip and wholesome wilted kale and on the side garlicky green beans.
Next on our indulgent expedition, we shared a seasonal pannacotta adorned with spiced roasted plum, the warmth of the cinnamon-infused plum, counterpointed with the clean vanilla wobble of the pannacotta, and a lovely, dusted pastry roll generously filled with soft spiced apple, accompanied by a luscious drizzle of caramel sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Bistro Bleu is a lovely find that caters to all occasions, be it a swift lunch, a celebratory weekend gathering, or a cosy date night. The warm and inviting setting of this discreetly nestled bistro in Bloomsbury makes it an appealing choice, particularly on tranquil evenings after the festivities are over.
Bistro Bleu at the Rugby Tavern
19 Great James Street
Bloomsbury
London WC1N 3ES
Looking for a similar concept but in Soho? Try The Devonshire Grill Room
