Last Updated on February 11, 2024
Timeless Bistro Classic in Covent Garden
There are places in London that seem to have been there forever. Balthazar is one of those – a classic, French-style bistro that if you had to guess you might believe opened a hundred or so years ago. In reality, it’s quite a baby, the younger sister of the eponymous and super-popular restaurant in New York.
The brainchild of restaurateur Keith McNally, the Manhatten Brasserie opened in 1997 and quickly became a hotspot. The London outpost opened in 2013 and follows the same model as Balthazar New York, with traditional French dishes such as steak frites, moules marinières, and onion soup, along with an extensive selection of seafood, salads, and pastries. It is brilliantly located, on the edge of the Market itself in a corner spot and it’s always busy.
We were lucky, turning up on the off chance one Sunday evening, to find a table without booking in advance. It’s a comfy place to hang out with classic red leather banquettes, lots of mirrors and polished brasswork and a distinct French feel, even if it does originate from across a larger pond.
What better way to celebrate actually finding a seat without a reservation than with a Kir Royale!
To start, I ordered snails – Escargots, with garlic, parsley and Pernod butter and was easily convinced of the need for some bread to mop up all the garlic and butter deliciousness. The dish came classically served with the snails doused in sauce and baked in their shells. Delicious
My companion picked the salt cod brandade – a kind of poshed-up French-style fishcake served with roasted pepper tapenade, capers and a dill and caper crème fraiche. The soft potato and fish filling contrasted beautifully with the crisp exterior.
Her main course of Steak Frites was more classic French stuff, served beautifully with a generous portion of frites and a bearnaise sauce on the . In fact, we thought the first portion of frites was for us to share – but we actually ended up with the same again to accompany the sole goujons with tartare sauce that I enjoyed.
In some misplaced attempt to be healthy, we ordered a green salad to share which was only disappointing in the overwhelming amount of baby spinach, which seems to have replaced iceberg lettuce as the salad padding of choice.
Everything was washed down with a bottle of Bordeaux Blanc and while I could only manage truffles and coffee, my companion enjoyed a classic and well-executed creme brulée
Service was excellent, the vibe was buzzing but not overly crowded and the overall result was a lively, fun evening out with good quality food that you didn’t really need to think too hard about.
Apart from the a la carte menu, Balthazar has a Prix Fixe from Monday to Friday, with two courses at £27.50 and three at £29.50 which would be perfect for pre-theatre dining. There’s a brunch menu and one for kids too. It’s refreshing to find a Covent Garden restaurant offering a relaxed atmosphere and great food at reasonable prices. One to remember!
