Baby E, Dale Street, reviewed

What: Baby E Coffee and Deli

Where: 24 Dale St, L2 5RL

Food/beverage type: Lunch, brunch, deli, beers and wine and private events

When: Mon–Fri: 8:30–15 // Sat and Sun: 9–15

Independent or chain: Sovereign

Decor

In the Baby E basement, you’re not exactly bathed in light, but when a storm blows, I don’t particularly want to be out on the patio, tying my napkin to the cutlery and watching the lettuce leaves flutter in the wind. I’d rather snuggle up somewhere inviting, and Baby E is a great place to do that.

Large columns support the open and inviting main room, where the serving section and deli counter are visible, and when you see how many shoes and shopping bags wander by, you’ll be glad you’re here.

In the past, this might have been turned into a bar or a small club, but there are many ways to keep the everyday storm at bay without booze and mixers. A good lunch spot can do something about this, and they also serve beer and wine if you want something in between.

The main event

In true lunchtime tradition, I opted for the Club Stack (£8.95), hoping it would achieve the little alchemy of a club sandwich. There are some really sorry efforts out there – we’ve all had one; a soggy, wretched part of the sandwich, the ingredients wriggling out from under the sad white bread in a break of freedom.

This was a really well put together sandwich: generous and well seasoned cajun chicken that really rang with the spices the name suggests; smoked streaky bacon that serves as a real underpinning; melted cheese and chipotle mayonnaise give the rich flavor a mild indulgence. But all of this would be a bit one-note structurally if it weren’t for two ingredients, one of which I know I need and the other of which I don’t. Crunchy and bright crunchy lettuce (as expected) and fresh, fiery raw red onion that lifted this well-seasoned and dense sandwich just the right amount. The sourdough held everything together with the command of well-made bread. All in all, a great lunch success. Pot of tea in hand (£2.10) this was ideal midday fare so I wasn’t even tempted by the lager taps. Praise indeed.

Doomsday

Everyone has their favorite lunch spot, and lord knows there are enough of them, but a much-restored place can start to feel like an awful lot of repetition. When you feel like you’re somewhere new, you could do a lot worse than head up Dale Street, then down again and try Baby E’s.

Baby E, 24 Dale St, L2 5RL