David Adamson escapes the cold at a Korean deli with broth on the go
Korean culture has really taken off in the UK over the last few years.
It quickly changed from long misunderstood, little understood A thing that people likelet it be a movie (Parasite), music (BLACK PINK), TV or food – or if it is Culinary class warsboth.
I’d argue it’s still pretty new, even as you walk down Berry Street, past the Bombed Out Church and into a city that has been dedicated to East Asia longer than any other city in Europe.
Berry Street was a complete mess when I wandered down Tuesday morning, and I probably would have jumped into the storm drain if it had gotten me out of the icy winds. Fortunately, Moiim was there, open and inviting, so I went in instead.
Photo: p
The place is already somewhat steep in deliveries, but luckily it knows the value of a few stools, a clean counter and a window. Sitting on the couch eating takeout doesn’t quite give you the same feeling of satisfaction, but you have to be in nature.
It’s a cute but understated layout inside, with plants and trinkets on wall shelves and the odd framed poster that nods to the images we’re now familiar with. It’s not so much a sense of humor as a decision not to take yourself too seriously, which in today’s food and drink world is very refreshing.
A cartoon dragon drawn in chalk on the outside of the sign beckons you to try our delicious corndog!
A simple deli counter, a one-page menu and a place to sit is a great pleasure when eating during the day and especially at lunchtime. You don’t need too many bells and whistles, if any, and sometimes lunch without the temptation of a lager or a glass of wine is a lot more fun. Sometimes. As with Moiim.
A cheerful lady behind the counter greeted me, we chatted about the weather and I proceeded to order before picking up a crisp £20 note as the place is cash only. Consider this fair warning.
With a few coins jingling in my wallet, I took a seat on a stool in the coziest-looking corner and sat patiently, listening to K-pop blaring from the speakers, feeling really desperate.
The weather meant it was a day for something warming and ideally spicy, so I decided to order the most delicious dish I could lay my hands on, Dak Bokkeum Tang (£12.90); stewed chicken on the bone in a spicy stew with potatoes and carrots and rice.
Sometimes a stew is the only thing that will do, and especially if it’s full of chili. This was just what I needed and it was one of those dishes where you greedily go through with a chorus of ‘hmms’ and ‘ooohs’. Balm of the soul at just £13 ain’t bad.
When the chicken is on the bone, it makes a huge difference to the texture of a good stock compared to having the breast meat swinging around. It’s like painting with watercolors after years of scribbling with colored pencils.
The stewed chicken didn’t so much fall off the bone, but collapsed from it like a Sagittarius from the front, as Wilhelm screamed into the deep amber broth. You know a dish is good when the meat comes second to the broth, and this was a wonderful, heartier stew, to which the carrots added depth, acting as a Trojan horse for the enthusiastic bit of chili that crept in.
Of course, I couldn’t ignore the cartoon dragon, so I ordered the classic variety Korean Corn Dog (£5); batter and panko breadcrumb coated nakki, fried to a satisfying taste. The addition of moiim sauce (ketchup, mustard and gochujang) was sweet, tangy and had a beautifully mustardy flavor that cut the salty sausage and batter just right.
Moiim was just what I needed that day, and the stew was so good that I happily dived into it most lunchtimes. I still haven’t seen it Parasite (I know, I know) and I have a TV watch list longer than Anna Karenina so there may not be time Culinary class warsbut when it comes to Korean culture, I’m totally sold on the food. Whatever the weather.
Mom40-42 Berry St, Liverpool L1 4JQ
