“A comforting combination of effort and indulgence”: Tartuffe, Side Street, review

My first introduction to Side Street was at the beginning of the year, at an underground club night with a semi-weird date. I entered through the side door, ready to dance until the wee hours of the morning, enveloped by the bass and darkness that the studio surpassed. I didn’t expect to stumble from a party into one of Manchester’s sexiest new hangouts (or for my date to surprise me with the arrival of his ex, but that’s another story).

As I emerged from the near-pitch-dark studio to find a drink, I encountered another, much better surprise that made me fall in love with Side Street Studios (as it was called at the time) pretty much there and then. Black and white checkered floors, low mid-century furniture, warm little gold table lamps, and large, shiny leather couches beckoned me behind the long, curved bar. I got my drink and hoped that at some point I would find a good excuse to come back under better conditions.

Fast forward a few months, and the excuse was Tartuffe, a very good fry-up opened by Chef Gary Weir and Ruby Fryman. Here you’ll find the heartwarming classics you laughed at as a happy child, lovingly elevated to serious date night fodder. Fried chicken, hash browns, macaroni cheese and roasted potatoes all feature – but not necessarily in the way you’d expect. A little caviar here, a generous touch of Fontina and a little messy mushroom there. You get the picture.

Set in a bar, workspace and studio on the edge of Spinningfields, the menu centers on larger plates of lovingly sourced cooking chicken, offering it all: juicy, succulent meat, tasty crispy skin and a wonderfully sweet and herby juiciness that keeps coming. Comes standard with a half of caramelized garlic, its silky little claws just waiting to be plucked from its roasted intestines. It’s fair to say this isn’t your average chicken joint. This is the place for some really sexy chicks. (Amelia Dimoldenberg, note).

Gary is on duty when I arrive and stops by the table for a friendly chat. We have met before in his other role as Executive Chef at Freight Island. Tartuffe has been open for a few months now and I admit that my visit has been long. I’ve already pretty much picked what I want, but since I’m still waiting for my friend Ben (who is typically late), I’ll pick Gary’s brain from his favorites.

As it turns out, we agree on most things. Roisserie chicken is of course a must. We discuss the sides, and before I know it, he’s offering to make me a chef’s table, which I can’t help but accept. It would be crazy not to. If he misses something I really want, he says, Just shout. However, he doesn’t. I get everything I want – no yelling required.

As we speak, Ben arrives, almost fifteen minutes late, but still quicker than I expected. Shortly after, a variety of small plates come out of the kitchen. Plump preserved lemon and chilli covered Nocellara olives (£4.50), fennel salami from Westcombe with a pile of crunchy little pickles on the side (£10) and a warm sliced ​​baguette with salted whey butter. (€4.50) fill the table. At the same time we get to work on a bottle of DOC Lago Vinho Verde Branco (£30). Dry with hints of tropical fruit, it’s a happy companion.

Snacks and approving grunts of salami later, next are the two side dishes I’ve been most eager to try: miniature chicken Kievs with parsley aioli (£7.50) and caviar-stuffed hash browns (£10).) Hash browns offer a comforting combination of firmness and indulgence, and they’re wonderfully crispy, fatty little cubes topped with plenty of creme fraiche and black caviar. They really are nothing more than a mouthful, and frankly impossible not to be fooled.

Broilers also tick comforting boxes, but still manage to feel great. These are plump little balls that simply ooze garlic butter and herbs, their breading is crispy on the outside and the chicken is succulent and juicy on the inside. Served over a fresh parsley aioli that cuts through the rich butter and chicken fat, they give me all the good feels. I can definitely see myself eating these with a few beers as a snack another time.

For the main event, chicken and sides. Naturally, the demi-roisserie chicken takes center stage – as it should, swimming in its rich, glistening juices, with an extra dose of crispy toast for even more oozing. We dip in and out, turn from chest to thigh, while picking at the tempting pages to see which pairs are the best. When it all comes, we have so much food that it barely fits on our two tables – not that we’re complaining.

The star has to be the broccoli macaroni and cheese, crispy and brown on top thanks to a generous helping of freshly bubbling Fontina. A hearty Caesar salad loaded with freshly shaved parmesan and whole anchovies also impresses, as does a bowl of roasted thyme and thyme. Split and dunked in the accompanying Parmesan black pepper and truffle-based dressing, they reach another level. There is also more of that wonderful chicken cheese dripping, served in a shimmering silver boat.

Still, even with the chicken, there’s one more surprise in store for the evening: an 8-ounce flat iron steak that’s so pink, juicy, and tender, I think it’s been through sous vide. Served with Cafe de Paris butter sauce and fiercely vinegary mushrooms, it’s a seriously sexy little steak and leaves a lasting impression.

Plates cleared, we finish on a sweet note with a glistening black forest port with a ganache so shiny I can almost see my reflection in it. Loaded with berries, morello cherries and boozy kirsch chantilly, it’s rich, chocolaty and everything you want in a good pudding.

Despite only being open for a few months, Tartuffe is already nominated for pop-up of the year at this year’s Manchester Food and Drink Festival awards, and it’s no surprise to see why. The combination of Gary’s skillful cooking and the versatile charm of Side Street Studios certainly does it for me. This is heightened nostalgia, well done in a relaxed setting that makes you feel right at home – and I’d like to see a lot more of that, please.

Side Street, 21-23 Quay Street, M3 4AE

Side Street is in the guides