IWC’s Pilot’s Watch is here shown in its purest, monochrome form. The 40mm case is timeless and tough on a tapered black leather strap with bold stitching. The Mark XX is legible in the dimmest of lights through liberal doses of Super-Luminova, while the polished bezel and hands gives it an unexpected yet very assured elegance. Worth stretching the budget by a bullseye to £5,050 for this one. iwc.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea
If you haven’t heard about the forgotten technique called gratté-boisé, one look at the dial and you’ll be smitten. As if capturing the arctic sky seen through a frozen telescope, Montblanc has added a fresh touch to what is a classic sports watch with a tapering steel bracelet and tough diver’s spec. Between blue, green and black, we’ll go for the latter. £2,785, montblanc.com
Bell and Ross BR-05
Inextricably linked to big, bold pilot’s instruments for the wrist, Bell and Ross surprised us with the BR-05. A French, chic alternative to Genta grail charm, off the beaten monochrome path with a rich copper/toned dial. We like this squircular take on seventies chic with a sunset dial. £4,300, bellross.com & jurawatches.co.uk