The Afghan eaterie is just nine months old but already draws diners from across north London and further afield.
This authentic Afghan restaurant might have slotted as easily onto the streets of Kabul and visitors won’t be disappointed by the generous portions of baked and grilled meats, manti and naans that are characteristic of the mountainous country.
The manager and co-owner is Walli (his proper name is Zalmai Ahmed Zai).
Born in Kabul in 1967, his family hails from Jalalabad in eastern Afghanistan and the dishes he serves at Hujra are the same that his mother cooked for his family.
Memories of those dishes have travelled with him over the years in which he made his way to Europe and ultimately to Holloway.
He has a remarkable biography: a supporter of the mujahedin under Russian rule, Walli told me, he worked as a photographer and writer for the Afghan Media Research Centre, fighting through the camera lens and not the rifle.
He took photographs for a mine awareness programme magazine, sponsored by the United Nations and was part of a mine clearance programme.
Walli later moved to Pakistan and on to Switzerland where he learned his catering skills. He worked his way through the ranks from dishwasher to restaurant manager. From there to Italy where he worked for the Red Cross for eight years.
Shortly before Covid, he came to London and went into business with two cousins who own grocery shops in East London. He found and developed a derelict property on Holloway Road before opening his restaurant in the middle of last year.
Hujra is the Pashto word for a community centre. The restaurant is unusually large but on the night I went, it was packed to the brim. Not only were the tables full, but the raised carpeted space at the back of the restaurant where visitors sit cross-legged and drink tea was also overflowing.
Walli’s two brothers and three sons and their family friends cook and serve the food, while he exerts a tight rein.
The charcoal grills are busy producing kebabs and lamb chops under the supervision of Walli’s brother Bostan: “You can only rely on family members to come to work in the morning. Others will not turn up or disappear,” he tells me.
As soon as you are seated, the waiter brings naan on an upright metal stand to your table. This is a space-saver which adds an exotic hint and keeps the naan hot. It is regularly replenished throughout the meal.
The star of the Hujra menu is the grilled whole spatchcock chicken, marinated with a savoury and gently spicy marinade whose recipe is a secret – save to say that freshly squeezed lemon is a key ingredient. It is divine.
The minced and cubed lamb and lamb chops are freshly grilled on the charcoal stove and portions are substantial and spices are flavourful. The minced lamb is particularly gentle in flavour. I also loved the traditional mantu, minced lamb dumplings with yoghurt, topped with meat sauce and lentils – highly characteristic of the country. The aubergine, served with yoghurt and tomato sauce, is delicious for both meat eaters and vegetarians.
Hujra introduced me to Kabuli Pilau, an Afghan rice cooked slowly with lamb and mixed herbs, it is topped with raisins and carrots served with salad. I can recommend the Charsi lamb and Charsi Chicken Karahi.
Prices are moderate for such generous quantities making Hujra not only a culinary treat serving Afghan food at its beset but a cultural experience that Holloway should celebrate and welcome to its heart.
Hujra Afghan Restaurant is at 463 Holloway Rd, London N7. Phone: 07351 165047.
