Last Updated on November 5, 2024
Great Scott! It’s a Fishy Tale
Here at London Unattached, we get very excited about our ‘Best … Restaurants’ features. As an unrepentant ‘Peskytarian’ of many years standing I’ve been kicking my heels impatiently waiting for us to launch our ‘Best Fish Restaurants in London’ – and now here it is! Enough of the Sunday Roasts already. I cod carp on at length about the many plaices that I’ve enjoyed, and as I’m not the shellfish type I’ve chosen Scott’s, one of London’s best-known ‘posh fish supper’ joints to open the series[ed. ENOUGH!]
Scott’s has a rich history dating back to 1851. Founded by young fishmonger John Scott as an oyster warehouse, it quickly evolved into a prestigious seafood establishment. For over a century, Scott’s Fish Restaurant was located on Coventry Street in Haymarket before moving to its current location at 20 Mount Street in Mayfair in 1967. In 1975 Scott’s was attacked twice by the IRA who were allegedly trying to reunify a split hollandaise sauce. Throughout its history, Scott’s has attracted a glamorous clientele of film stars, politicians, writers and now me. Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, was a regular patron in the 1950s and reportedly conceived the idea of the “shaken, not stirred” Martini at the restaurant. Other celebrity guests include A-listers such as Bill Clinton, Tom Cruise, Michael Caine, Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles, Johnny Depp and Steven Spielberg. The unpleasant incident when Charles Saatchi grabbed Nigella Lawson by the throat happened on Scott’s outside terrace and is best forgotten.
In 2005, über-restaurateur Richard Caring acquired Scott’s as part of Caprice Holdings with the restaurant reopening in November 2006 following an extensive renovation by the Martin Brudnizki Design Studio to reclaim its status as London’s finest fish restaurant. A second location opened on Richmond’s chi-chi riverside in September 2022. Scott’s is situated in the swankiest part of Mayfair; 3 Michelin-starred restaurant Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is just next door with its unbuttoned approach to fine dining. Limousines purr down the streets bearing their privileged cargo with the neighbourhood’s inhabitants just seeming richer than the rest of us.
The entrance of Scott’s is staffed by eager beavers trying hard not to judge you too much while they take your coats. The dining room has a capacity of 130 covers but is artfully split into separate areas without anyone feeling that they are on a ‘bad’ table. For anyone wanting to indulge in a PDA, being seated on the terrace or at the marble and brass oyster and Champagne counter with its stingray feature is a must. But otherwise, the interior is all about tasteful, understated luxury, unlike the unashamed bling factor of Caring’s other piscine venture, Sexy Fish. There is dark wood panelling, Burgundy-coloured leather chairs and banquettes to sit on, mosaic-tiled pillars, silver leaf mirrored screens and artwork from British artists including Michael Landy, Gary Hume and Fiona Rae. It’s a riot of good taste.
Head chef David McCarthy has constructed a menu of seafood classics but with his own twist. Seared scallops arrive in their shells, doused in a rich aji amarillo chilli, parsley and lime butter sauce, with the crunch of toasted corn giving some textural contrast. It’s a familiar recipe but the quality and sheer volume of the butter creates a deliciously heart-stopping mouthful.
The dressed crab is a generous portion sadly evicted from its shell. Served with the usual chopped egg and an underpowered dollop of brown meat mayo, a bit too polite and refined for me.
We drink a bottle of Vermentino, Giorgio Meletti Cavallari, Bolgheri, Tuscany. With plenty of minerality and white fruit flavours, it is a good match for the seafood without breaking the bank – the wine list is not for the faint-hearted. A smartly presented ray wing comes pan-fried in an unctuous potted shrimp and cucumber butter sauce to the point where the flesh is falling off the bone. It is delicious with the little shrimp a pleasing addition. You may have noted that recurring butter theme – by this point in the evening my cardiologist was on speed dial.
A grilled half lobster comes with garlic butter (a lot) and seashore vegetables. The flesh is fabulously tender and tasty. Cooking is easy, just add lots of butter. Sides of fries are sensibly sized – there’s a fashion for gobstoppers at the moment – and properly crisp and dry; and a gem heart salad with a light champagne vinaigrette is super fresh and a respite from the dairy excess.
A shared dessert of a Bakewell pudding has a rustic feel and oozes jam with the accompanying almond praline ice cream adding extra crunch factor.
Scott’s
20 Mount Street,
Mayfair,
London,
W1K 2HE
Other fish restaurants you might like to try include
Manzi’s
The Seafood Bar
Ocean Basket Seafood Restaurant
Orient London
Bucket
