David Adamson finds time for a bowl of ramen on the way
Eating out on a schedule is often not as simple as you’d like, especially if the schedule is a train schedule.
It can range from an almost too leisurely meal thanks to too careful timing, or frantically grabbing a sandwich at the station shop, only to find that the train is late and you’re left with a sad BLT at Platform 5.
There are a few offers outside Manchester Piccadilly – Archies Burger, Leon, Greggs (naturally) – but Grand Central Station certainly isn’t. Lime Street, on the other hand, benefits from Berry and Renshaw Street being a manageable walk from the station. So, on my way back there one night, I looked at the inviting photo of Tokyo Noodle Bar, checked the time, and headed inside.
Located in one of the many small units that make up Berry Street, it’s a great example of making the most of what you’ve got. There are a manageable number of tables and neatly arranged, a small corner counter with a service bar, and a kitchen in the back that kicks out the comforting clatter of pans.
There are warmly lit hanging lanterns, a trellis of artificial flowers for a slightly soft interior, and a mural of the sunrise behind the pagoda next to cherry blossom branches. In addition to the decor, the whole place has a straightforward no-nonsense approach that I love.
I slid onto the bench and ordered an Asahi, in my book the most depressingly refreshing bottle of lager on the market. How on earth it’s made so refreshing I don’t know, but for the sake of eating Japanese food and quenching your thirst, it’s the one.
I was definitely attracted by the potential of a quick-start, but there was only one thing on my mind – ramen. It’s not only one of the best foods to eat for a quick dinner, it’s one of the best foods to eat for a full meal. You’d be hard-pressed to find a place that makes disastrously bad ramen, and if you do a decent walk, you’ll likely stumble upon five places that do it well.
There were a lot of options – sort of building your own approach – but I decided their specialty, ‘Tokyo Ramen’, was the one. If they have put their mark on it, it would be impolite to ignore it. Next, what should it contain? I went with char sui and king prawns, two things that go together oddly well, especially in a pot of good broth.
This was Laksa stylewith coconut milk and not straight bone broth, recommended by the owner. However, creamy does not necessarily mean less spiciness. If anything, it may mean more.
“Spicy?” I asked, hopefully.
“Yeah, about the spices,” said the owner.
Tokyo Ramen it is then.
The ramen arrived quickly and with it came the good stuff; char sui, king prawns, carrot, mushrooms, white cabbage and paprika. It’s a great joy to fish out the various ingredients with a big ladle, and the broth itself never seems to diminish. I went through three napkins and they were thick.
It was a nice change to choose a creamy rather than a bone broth for once, and the laksa style recommendation was correct; it was just as satisfying, but for different reasons.
There is a real gem in the city on a street like this, with several restaurants as the station approaches, so much so that you could probably eat a series of meals out just on Berry Street.
Twist the WH Smith butties and make half an hour for Tokyo Noodle Bar, for example. Just don’t miss your train.
Tokyo Noodle Bar7 Berry St, Liverpool L1 9DF
15/20
-
Food
Tokyo Ramen 8
-
Service
-
Atmosphere