The bar has been overhauled too, with a brand new “playful, 50s chic” cocktail list. The food menu, meanwhile, has been slimmed down, focussed. “I don’t think young kids are coming in for liver in butter and sage,” Thesleff deadpans. But it’s mostly classic Italian fare, some with an American touch. There’s pasta alla vodka, beef carpaccio, parmigiana. Never cheap, it would now be easy to spend very seriously: £85 for a rack of lamb, sea bass at £65, veal Milanese at £52. Not such a surprise, then, that “our average spend has completely changed.”
