“Wraps you in classic cashmere”: San Carlo, Liverpool, reviewed

What: San Carlo Liverpool

Where: 41 Castle St, L2 9SH

Type of food/drink: Classic Italian dishes

When: From Monday to Sunday: 12:00 to 23:00

Independent or chain: Sovereign

I had an exceptional meal at the San Carlo restaurant in Liverpool at the weekend. The place was jumping on a Saturday afternoon.

Walking here is like going through a wormhole and entering Milan’s Trattoria Madonnina. Everyone’s up for it, from a small but elegant wedding party to a couple of daughters and their moms getting together over a glass of champagne and a good gossip. Perfume is expensive. Liverpool women can outrun Milan, and six beers at the bar sharing war stories are in good spirits.

This is why San Carlo and the Distefano family are the kings of hospitality in high-end Italian restaurants; they are inclusive and treat everyone from grandchildren to grandparents in the classroom. No snobbery about white tablecloths. It’s warm, it wraps you in classic cashmere.

The house’s interest group treats everyone’s money with respect. They know we’ve worked hard for it and it’s their job to make you happy.

I had a simple tomato and avocado salad. Maybe not the best time of year for tomatoes, but somehow the guys here have found sunshine in the bowl.

A good sized Dover sole was properly cooked, seasoned and served on the bone for me. You can cut it. I find the enjoyment of this fish comes as much from the taste and texture as from the fact that you can debone it yourself. You get a great feeling of accomplishment. Childish, I know, but very important. I love Liverpool and San Carlo is still serving everyone after all these years.

The creme brûlée was silky. It’s that simple.

The place is more Milan than Milan, and walking around reminds me walking in Langan is in London in its heyday.

Absolute Gordo Go.

San Carlo Liverpool41 Castle St, L2 9SH