Theo James likes a good suit. In 2016’s War On Everyone, he wore a great grey suit. In 2019’s Lying and Stealing, he charmed everyone with a lovely black suit. And for GQ Men of the Year 2023, in association with Boss, he rocked up in a very nice Casely-Hayford suit that makes a serious statement by being… seriously understated.

Arriving at Men of the Year 2023 with his wife Ruth Kearney, James keeps things simple with a double-breasted design, a dark navy colour palette, and matching trousers. It’s a combination that has worked wonders for centuries, but rather than sticking with tradition, you won’t find any shirts or ties here. Zero. Zip. Zilch. Nada. Classic tailoring is a lot more easygoing these days.

Instead, he’s layered this on top of a complementary T-shirt and he’s got on a pair of very glossy Oxfords. It’s exactly the kind of fit that you’d expect from the same guy who played the incredibly charming Cameron in last year’s White Lotus. Shades and all.

Which means if you don’t have one in your rotation, get one. A shawl collar has whispers of black tie without being as stuffy or as formal as old school black tie. We’ve already said that navy is mad versatile – and we’ll say it again. But there’s also something to be said about going double-breasted: it gives the illusion of some bulk up top (not that James needs it) and, again, it’s old school without going full dandied Savile Row.

Absolutely everyone can wear a suit, but not everyone can wear a suit like Theo James, especially at GQ Men of the Year 2023. The modern red carpet dress code can also go quiet.

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