Right, you’re heading out tonight and it calls for a “semi-formal dress code.” You’re… confused, understandably. You don’t know what to wear. It’s like “smart casual” they say – but what does that actually mean? Well, semi-formal doesn’t actually need to be difficult. It’s not a whole suit-cumberband-and-bow tie flex. In fact, it actually makes your life a lot easier for event dressing. Because who really wants to head to their partner’s uncle’s 48th birthday in a tux anyway?
Semi-formal means you can play around a bit more. And to help you out, we’ve dug deep to get the semi-formal dress code explained.
Semi-formal dress-code explained
Semi-formal allows you to play around. with things. It’s probably, arguably, the most fun dress code out there. Benedict Browne, London-based menswear stylist, says: “No one likes or understands ‘smart casual’; it’s too nuanced and results in a sea of poorly-made, tired-looking chinos. It’s the pits. Thankfully, you’ve got semi-formal, a much-needed medium between ‘smart casual’ and ‘formal’. The latter requires a tie or, at the very least, an open-collar shirt beneath a jacket, and unless you’re dandified, it’s quite stiff and not a lot of fun. You might as well be in the City.”
A semi-formal dress code comes in at medium to high on the formality Richter scale. You’re likely going to want to wear a suit, but you don’t need to wear a tie. You don’t really need to wear a shirt. You want the suit to fit your frame, but you needn’t run to a tailor to get it expertly measured to your frame. “Semi-formal infers the need for tailoring – be it a suit or separates – but it allows for the introduction of fine gauge knitwear such as a thin crewneck, polo shirt or T-shirt worn beneath a jacket,” Browne explains. “It’s a modern and relaxed way of wearing formal clothing. It shows effort, but also that you value your own comfort, and it can take you from day to night with ease.”
Who does semi-formal well?
There are loads of guys you can look to for inspiration when it comes to a semi-formal dress code. Jacob Elordi is a bit of an expert at it, wearing really nice Celine suits, but switching out shirt and tie combos for more left-field broad-collared shirts. Andrew Garfield often treads the red carpet in a suit, but goes tieless and open-collared, which in turn brings down the formality of his vibe a notch. Michael B Jordan might be the guy who is doing it best. He’s mastered the semi-formal sweet spot with his go-to louche suit and scoop neck vest combo. He loves switching out a shirt for a roll neck, which is still more formal than going for a tee, but isn’t as stuffy as a button-down. Or going for an oversized blazer and a pair of contrasting front-pleated slacks.
Where to shop for semi-formal clothing
And of course, there are an array of brands that you should head to to achieve the semi-formal look. “The likes of Thom Sweeney, Dunhill and Ralph Lauren have always catered to this area,” Browne says. “They all offer soft tailoring in navy, greys, greens and browns, complementing a wide range of tasteful knitwear in navy, dark green, grey and neutrals.” Elsewhere British label King and Tuckfield has built its aesthetic on going slightly looser on traditional formalwear, and it offers up handmade knits, crochet cardigans and wide-leg flares, with corresponding wide-lapelled jackets.
Studio Nicholson has also got a great thing going on for guys who are after something that is suitable as an evening guest at a wedding, or the work Christmas party at a fancy restaurant, or a 30th birthday at that cocktail bar in Mayfair. There are loose-fit trousers cut from wool that when paired with the boxy shirts breathe life into old-school formality. Cos is also a great place to head to if you want to achieve a semi-formal vibe – mix and match one of their one-size-too-big blazers with a crisp white shirt, a pair of wide-legged slacks and stomper Derbies and you’re good to go.
What to avoid when trying a semi-formal dress-code
“The trick with going semi-formal is not to overcomplicate things and stick to a restrained colour palate of one to two colours; navy and grey are best friends,” Browne says. Avoid too much jewellery, as this can look costumey. Patterns should also be given a miss. And trainers are a no, because while you think wearing a suit and sneaks is still formal, it usually isn’t.
