London has more pubs than any other city in the world so I think it’s fair to say we enjoy a pint. But while most boozers welcome midday punters, one Borough institution is notorious for serving up sweet, sweet nectar before the sun even rises.
The Market Porter has retained its traditional market opening hours, meaning customers can still grab an ale or lager at 06.00 despite the UK’s strict drinking laws. Although a custom now more associated with Wetherspoons, it was actually the norm across the capital as early as 100 years ago.
Historically, most pubs in London would serve from first light, but this was stamped out during the First World War as it saved grain and kept the soldiers sober. However, an exception was made for market taverns, as they were considered necessary for business operations.
Borough Market, for example, used to be a hub of activity in the wee hours, with stallholders unloading goods and making sales. Having stood on the same Stoney Street corner since the 17th century, The Market Porter (named as such in 1890) was a popular choice for south Londoners clocking out after a morning shift, with some workers even being paid over a drink.
Traders would also often complete a large deal, such as the sale of a horse or sheep, over a pint or two before shaking it down. Between 6am and 9am the beer taps were flowing – and not much has changed for the locals.
Final orders ring in at 8:30 before the pub closes an hour before the kitchen opens for breakfast. Relics of a forgotten era, The Market Porter and The Fox and Anchor in Farringdon are the last two traditional market pubs left in the capital.
While early morning drinks were once as common as Happy Hour, today the crowd is made up predominantly of people coming from the night shift. This includes the typical butchers and bakers, but also police officers, nurses, paramedics, taxi drivers, railway engineers and journalists. As reported by The Guardian, The Fox and Anchor has also seen its clientele shift away from market workers and towards office workers due to increased alcohol prices.
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