This central London alley, next to Leadenhall Market, is named after a ship but dominated by a swan.
The alley likely came into existence when the first Leadenhall Market, as a market for herbs, opened, with a long passage leading from the market to Gracechurch Street.
The alley used to be longer and straighter, but the eastern half was cut off when a building was constructed on the site. That building was demolished in 2000, and archaeologists researched it for Roman remains in 2002, but the land lay fallow, and it would take until 2015 for the current building to be finally constructed on the site.
So what was once a long passage lined with traders is today more of a short curved space around the backs of modern offices. Just two traders remain – a barbers with the classic barbers’ pole outside, and the Swan Tavern.
The pub is not old, well, not by London standards, as it can trace its origin back only to 1861, and the current building dates to 1898, which is confirmed by the date just above the second-floor windows.
It has a classic “Olde London” appearance, with wood panelling and frosted glass, but the most notable feature is the Art Nouveau pub signs above the passage on both sides.
The other pub signs are newer and change regularly, and at one time it was a Whitbread Snack Bar. A photo from the 1930s also shows a changed pub sign, but also, if you zoom in, you can see light reflecting panels hanging in the alley.
Now, you might be wondering why they decided to name the pub The Swan Tavern when it’s on Ship Tavern Passage.
That’s because the alley used to be longer and led to Lime Street, where there was another pub – the Ship Tavern. Sadly, the Ship Tavern finally closed in 2010 and is now a cheeky fried chicken outlet.
May it be time for the Swan to turn into a Ship?
The alley will soon see a big change, as the building on the south side is about to be demolished and a new tower erected on the site, which will include a new entrance into the alley.
