Queens Bistro and Wine Bar, Queen Avenue, reviewed

I’m starting to bore myself at this point… bistro this, bistro that, “just give it 3-3-3”.

But there has been an imbalance in the restaurant world that needs to be addressed for some time; either too much flash, pzazz and insistence on fancy stuff, usually sushi and cocktails, or a slightly proletarian approach to pizza and pasta, but not much in between.

Where were they places to eat and casual, wood-floored rooms, the sense of time slowing down over the course of three courses rather than tearing through a Neapolitan pizza like you’re missing a train?

Queens Bistro and Wine Bar has been around since 2019 and has therefore weathered not only the storm of Covid but also the odd aftershocks of diners’ appetites that have reverberated as a result, and I’d say the worst is over. We now emerge from the bunker, bask in the sunshine and remember that oysters and the like are actually quite nice, and that it doesn’t make you a Tory to enjoy them on a plate.

Well, I’m glad it’s still standing, because if I were you, this would be a place I’d be raving about, basking in the warm glow I recommend, like you’re rattling the pans yourself. Some really don’t deserve the credit they’ve gotten from another highly infectious, airborne entity — word of mouth — and others, like Queens, really do.

Sneak into a handsome alley that would be more suited to sometime in the 1800s, just off Castle Street. You wouldn’t guess, how about vaguely Diagon Alley bay windows and narrow nature, but it is anything but comfortable.

Inside, it’s just my place; understated class with a bit of shabbiness around the edges, basically what you think of when someone says bistro. Relaxed staff who use their knowledge lightly, far from those who seem to be doing you a favour; inventive, interesting and crystal clear menu with a little wiggle room. Soft lighting, music that’s relaxed but not sleepy, and comfortable outdoor seating.

Nothing but food to check.

I love the menu that fits on one side of A4. You are forced to make decisions, you have to face what you really like about food, what you always avoid and what you might have too much of.

I participated in the lunch and early evening menu, an exercise in brilliant simplicity. Although there are a couple of things that chefs like to call now snacks (focaccia, olives, cold meats) I dived straight into the actual menu.

Split 3-4-3, with Johan Cruyff snapping his fingers like a slam Poetry troupe, I’d say this menu (changing often, very perfect football) covers everything you want for lunch. And with two courses for £20 or three for £25, it’s all about what you want to pay.

First with soup of the day and the salmon mousse with beetroot carpaccio and hazelnut was a clear contender for me; ham kinnerterine with peas and radish.

It had been a while since I’d had a terrine or one of its close relatives, and I had in mind the usual balance I try to strike, not falling too far on the fish or fowl side and trying to try both. starters and mains power. And here was the perfect opportunity.

The terrine was a rough variation on the theme, less of the parfait-leaning type, and it was a nice change from that. Simply put, the ham tasted like a fat and happy pig and had an almost woody, earthy base that was complemented very well by the bright and peppery radishes and flower peas. A simple trio, each bringing something to balance the classic appetizer.

The main course options were an exercise in setting the parameters of a good fixed-price menu; for veg a cauliflower cheesesteak (can be made vegan too), pork haragua for indulgences, bavette steak with potatoes and extra chimichurri (£4) for those wanting the full bistro experience, and finally a dish written down far too tempting and just for my taste; grilled mackerel with fennel and orange salad.

I love mackerel in all its forms, but perhaps because it makes such a wonderful pâté or can be peppered through salads and lighter dishes for a bit of ballast, it sometimes doesn’t get the level it deserves. The Dover sole has been in the limelight a bit.

This filet was well seasoned and grilled and not much else. It really doesn’t require too much decoration and a good chef knows how to take advantage of this simplicity, as in this case. It was a wonderfully put together dish and I tore through it happily. The fennel had mellowed enough but still gave a bit of aniseed crunch, the oranges were bright and juicy and the sprinkling of mint leaves added a welcome and unusual top note to the whole thing. The parsley sauce underneath was more than diligently cleaned.

It was getting close to around 3:00pm, and at that point dessert can feel a bit decadent if you’re still going to have dinner later (which I was, of course). But war it, I thought, I’m sure I’ll find room.

Although the selection of house sorbets could certainly have been interesting, it was always just a chocolate orange treat with cherry sorbet and hazelnut. It arrived looking fine and understated, but its delicate exterior belied its true nature; beautifully foamed and creamy treat (‘pleasure’) maybe, but it dragged me around the plate like a Neanderthal and I had no choice but to end it. Fantastic.

I can honestly say that Queens Bistro and Wine Bar is now my new favorite place in town. Sometimes it’s so straightforward, when something is so clear and well executed that you don’t have to think about it too much.

I’ll be back sooner or later I doubt. The menu is changing very soon, so I have the perfect excuse to black out its door again. Sorry, I can go next week. And the following week, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Queens Bistro and Wine BarQueen Ave, L2 4TX