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Sandwiches are big business in Manchester these days. To be clear, I’m not talking about the tuna-mayo concoction that you made bleary-eyed, suffocated in clingfilm and squashed into Tupperware before heading out to work.
No, I’m referring to the hefty subs longer than your forearms, the decadent breakfast butties, awe-inspiring grilled cheese creations and hot roast stacks that make you salivate just thinking about them being assembled.
That said, we’re a nation of meal deal lovers – occasionally pushing the boat out for a posh lunch at Pret – but over the last few years, some would argue, we’ve entered a ‘golden age’ in the bread and filling department – and we have a accomplished group of independents to thank for that.
READ MORE: The £16.50 three-course Christmas dinner in Morrisons had me choking on my stuffing ball
Northern Quarter institutions like Rustica have been reliably been feeding Mancunians for over 20 years with their loaded breakfast barms and Deansgate icons Katsouris are masters as schnitzels and mozzarella melts, but they’ve been joined by some new players, happy to push the boundaries of what you can do with two pieces of bread and and abundance of fillings.
Fat Pat’s is up there for sure, and while it might be inconspicuously located down a slightly suspect alleyway, it’s slinging out some of the best Philly Cheesesteak this city has ever seen. Meanwhile, over at Arndale Market, Rack’s pillowy soft bloomers are being stuffed to the brim with everything from roast chicken and bacon, to handmade onion bhajis.
That’s just scratching the surface though given that Northern Soul, Gooey, Ad Maiora, Banh Mi Co Ba, and Foldies are are serving up the goods as well – but each in their own unique way. There’s simply too many great places to name them all here.
However, there’s been one on my list for a few months. One that personifies the great sandwich renaissance better than all of them.
Born out of the lockdown, cult sandwich makers Bada Bing – known for their ‘soprano’ deli-style subs – first found success with pop-ups in Ancoats and Piccadilly, before laying their claim at their Ancoats General Store base until their tenancy came to an end in February 2022.
It wouldn’t be a stretch to say their their sudden departure from the Manchester food scene broke hearts. It really wouldn’t.
You can imagine the reaction then when earlier this summer, when a rather stylish video appeared on social media teasing it’s long-awaited return. Rather fittingly, the team posted a riff on The Sopranos opening credits as they passed what would become their new shop on Oldham Street in the Northern Quarter.
In September, co-founders Sam Gormally and Josh Urpi finally revealed their new headquarters – a slick, pared-back canvas that lets the food do all the talking.
Inside the shop, and hanging from the walls, posters and T-shirts – all branded with Bada Bing branded – designed by UN:IK feature slogans like ‘those who want respect, give respect’ and ‘inspired by mobsters, prepared by Bada Bing’.
It’s a good mantra to take into the dining experience too, especially given the spread they’re putting on. Subs on heavy rotation at the moment include the Spicy Italian (£12), crammed with salami turkey and salami Milano, joined by Swiss cheese, hot pepperoni, chipotle mayo and various other accompaniments jostling for position.
There’s Sam’s favourite too – the Muffaleta, which is made up of ham, turkey, salami milano, provolone, olive salad, and gochujang mayo.
For a novice like me though it has to be The Bing. Consisting of gabagool, pistachio mortadella, spicy salami, fennel salami, provolone, mayonnaise and Giardiniera, it’s hearty and there’s literally no space to give – the ingredients almost combusting out of the thick slices of bread.
I’ve always enjoyed a window seat and lucky for my lunch companion and I, two stools become available. A perfect people watching spot for a Northern Quarter lunch hour, we sit quietly watching Whippets in jackets parade along the street, skateboarders clip the curbs and office work filter in and out of Bada Bing.
It’s certainly popular but the lunchtime rush doesn’t mean we’re waiting long. The question is how to tackle it. I’ve never been described as a delicate eater despite trying my best, and now, with a huge sandwich in front of me, it doesn’t seem like the time to introduce table manners.
By the time I’ve extracted by sub from its paper casing, my friend has already devoured half of the Christmas special – the festively named Ho F***** Ho (£13). My mum would think that crass, I find it fun.
Nabbing some of their leftover sprouts – beautifully charred by the way – and roast turkey spilling from the paper I can confirm that as far as Christmas hoagies go, they’ve nailed it. I seem to have got distracted though and decide now is time to take on my own lunch rather than being a gannet.
Once out of its wrapping you can really appreciate the time and attention that’s gone into assembling The Bing. The light hits the sub at just the right angle picking up on it’s bread’s golden flecks, while the layers of Gabagool – an Italian cold cut known to be one of Tony Soprano’s favourites – is wedged effortlessly alongside pistachio mortadella, spicy salami, fennel salami, provolone.
Bookended by generous lashings of mayonnaise and Giardiniera – Italian relish – the strata of fillings are tightly packed together and it feels almost rude to take a bite. It’s not a pretty first bite either, in fact it’s a mess. There’s bit of Italian cold cut falling to the floor, fresh lettuce down my jumper somewhere and mayonnaise smeared across my face.
I turn to face the wall so not to be given a disapproving look, but I’m also quietly revelling in the beauty of this kind of dining. No one really cares what you look like, all that matters is the food – and as expected, it’s a delight. Fresh, quality ingredients perfectly balanced against one other, with a range of textures that keep you interested enough as you finish off the very last morsel.
It’s true, it definitely beats a fridge-cold meal deal of uninspired supermarket options, but there’s no denying that I’m also keen to finish it because of the price. Mine is £12 while the festive option is £13, or £15 with a pig in blanket stuffed inside and a pot of thick, delicious gravy. Along with two cans of pop, we’re looking at £31 for two sandwiches and two drinks.
Now, it’s not out of the ordinary for independent, specialist sandwich shops in the city centre to be priced at this point nowadays. I’m also aware of the costs and overheads which have shot up in recent years – from ingredients and energy bills to staffing costs and rent.
It’s not easy for small and medium-sized businesses right now, and I’m the first to champion smaller venues doing great things like these guys. I guess it’s just hard to justify a spend like this regularly in the current climate.
This kind of lunch falls into the special occasion category. You know, a birthday or promotion treat, or perhaps a ‘you’ve just been dumped or sacked’ commiseration meal. Though the thought of someone crying into a sandwich like this just feels wrong. Either way, I don’t think most could splash out on this perhaps more than once or twice a month.
That said, I’m sure supporting a promising independent every few weeks will all help us sleep better at night.
And as I sat there really appreciating the quality of the food I’d just consumed, feeling content and debating if I even needed to eat again that day, I knew that I’d much rather be treating myself – every now and then – to this, rather than a lacklustre meal deal, but I guess like most things it’s about balance.
Bada Bing is on 125 Oldham Street, M4 1LN. Opens Thursday (September 19).
