‘Fresh, filling and high quality’: The Barnacle, Duke Street, reviewed

The Barnacle, located in the mezzanine of the bustling food hall and popular weekend hangout Duke Street Market, served as the venue’s “intimate Scouse brasserie”, championing local food and offering more of a restaurant dining experience with its teal-hued booths. , neatly laid tables and a stylish tribute to the city’s rich maritime history.

But now owned by Harry Marquart of Bone and Block and Paul and Harry Askew of The Art School fame, the business has since decided to change its look, swapping its sea blue facade for a rustic maroon sign and armchairs, booths. and the wine glasses on the tables have been changed to industrial-style long tables with metal buckets that hold cutlery and napkins to match the rest of the venue and its vendors.

With the change, the menu has also changed from more complex and more complex dishes to a simpler and more relaxed but lovingly prepared list of delicious-sounding options, such as lamb shawarma, fish and chips and beef and stilton pie.

I visited the Barnacle on a rainy Wednesday afternoon, with the weather beating down on the skylight roof of the Duke Street Market, making the place feel even cozier and more inviting. Like other vendors here, you can now order Barnacle’s menu from the comfort of your table, anywhere. I sat not too far from the hatch to get a feel for the new look and was able to order.

The menu consists of about 20, give or take. They are not divided into categories, no appetizers, chef’s snacks or hors d’oeuvres. It’s not picky, and it gives you the ability to order exactly what you want, when you like it.

Having given up on some of their seafood options for shawarma, I thought it only right to go for the chicken shawarma kebab (£14.95); marinated chicken breast with mixed salad, cucumber, pickled red onion and mint yogurt, served on fluffy bread.

It arrived quickly, came well presented and smelled divine. I ate a big bite and was hit by the fresh, authentic taste. The chicken was tender, well marinated and fell apart in the mouth, while the vegetables were of good quality and the pickled onions added a nice crunch that was tamed by the yoghurt – perhaps a bit stiff yogurt, but that would be my only criticism.

The flatbread was fluffy and nicely toasted, with just enough bite without being chewy or soggy, or having those wickedly soggy bits where the veggies have gotten too wet and seeped through. An enjoyable dish that I could see myself returning to.

The “Liverpool” cheese rare dish also caught my eye, so I ordered a portion of that as well. The cheddar rare, served on sourdough toast and marinated stout syrup, came in four generous pieces for under a tenner (£9.95) and well worth it in my opinion.

The cheddar melted evenly and covered every inch of the sourdough, lightly charring the surface for that umami flavor. The pickled onions and shallots sat beautifully as pictured, ready to add pizzazz with every bite. Screw homemade cheese on toast – this is the real deal.

To finish off the meal I went with the vanilla ice cream and coffee syrup (£6.50) and decided to sit downstairs to order it for a change of scenery. Why? Because you can, and that’s the beauty of dining rooms.

Three large vanilla scoops were served in a rustic blue bowl topped with thick and sticky coffee syrup, crumb base and hazelnut.

Now, I’m not one to order ice cream often. If I’m not outside an award-winning gelateria in Italy in 30 degree heat, I can take it or leave it. It never particularly “rushed” me. But this one did a pretty good job thanks to Barnacle’s carefully chosen toppings. The cookie crumb combined with the hazelnut chips added enough texture to keep the whole thing exciting from start to finish, and the coffee syrup was pure dynamite, like a shot of espresso with every mouthful that knocked the socks off. Damn good stuff.

I think Barnacle has made the right move by switching to a more casual dining style and giving players fewer options, but putting the same tender loving care and craftsmanship into their menu. It’s a solid dining option and a place I rush back to when I need another affordable meal that won’t let me down.

Barnacle at Duke Street Market, 46 Duke St, L1 5AS

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