Last Updated on December 29, 2023
Stile Italiano in Earls Court
The area of London around South Kensington and Earls Court is a focal point for European expats. Thanks to the Lycee and Institut Francais, there’s a strong French contingent. There are some fabulous Polish restaurants (we recently reviewed Ognisko). Spanish food is very well represented by the Cambio de Terca group. You could be forgiven for thinking there’s everything but British – there’s even a rather good Ukrainian restaurant. So where better to have an authentic Italian restaurant? On the site of In Pescheria is the relatively newly opened Mamalu, offering the kind of menu you’d be more likely to find on the Amalfi coast.
A smart but unassuming interior, with white linen tablecloths, pretty decorative plates and metalwork fish on the walls set the tone. The menu was dominated by fresh fish, with a good range of pasta dishes and a few classic Italian meat ‘secondi’ for those of a carnivorous inclination.
We asked for some olives to nibble on while we waited and were impressed with the ‘oven-baked’ offering that arrived. Other than in a savoury dish, I’ve never tried hot olives before, but these were delicious. My companion, who doesn’t normally like olives said that the slightly firmer texture and softer flavour meant they worked for him too.
There’s an extensive range of wines by the glass, all Italian unless you are looking for Champagne or rosé wine – and the wines by the bottle comprise a full range of Italian wines (including Franciacorta) together with a list of premium medium to high-end French wines. Water is Aqua Panna and there’s a short, Italian cocktail list – think Negroni, Spritz and Martini.
When the generous plate of Frittura Misto arrived I was somewhat jealous of my companion. A mix of squid, Manzara red prawns and courgette came in a light tempura batter with a delicious mayonnaise that he hardly needed to touch.
Meanwhile, I ordered the Carpaccio di Gambero di Mazara – a beautifully flavoured dish with an unusual texture from prawns that seemed to have been pressed into a carpaccio but might have benefitted from more dressing.
For the main course, I chose the Pescato del Giorno which turned out to be Dover sole. Offered grilled or meuniere style, I opted for the latter and rather less healthy option. The fish should be coated in seasoned flour then fried and served with the remaining nutty butter. While the sole itself was perfectly cooked, the flour coating was a little heavy, though this was mitigated by a large side portion of parsley-laced melted butter. It was cooked on the bone (as it should be) and filleted for us at the table.
The Bistecca di Tonno Rosso ordered by my companion was exemplary. Just nicely sealed and charred a little on the outside, it had a pink interior. A simple enough dish, it was a great showcase for the restaurant.
We also enjoyed a couple of salads of which the puntarelle was superb. I loved the anchovy and evoo dressing and the puntarelle hearts were fresh and crisp with very little bitterness.
With pasta dishes on offer from £14 upward, a three-course monthly set menu that is priced just under £50 and some fabulous fresh fish options, this is the kind of place I wish was on my doorstep. Immense care has gone into sourcing ingredients and delivering authentic dishes – for any Italian I’m sure that it feels like a home from home. Service was friendly and informed and the overall atmosphere, even in that weird ‘no-man’s-timezone’ of just before Christmas, was good.
Mamalu
314 Earls Court Road
Kensington
SW5 9BQ
